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• #2
Get someone to add some extra thread to the BB shell, or risk it by forcing it by hand (cutting as you turn).
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• #3
Hot damn, I fixed it already. Went to my friend's machinist shop and borrowed a tap and cut an extra two threads. As the tap went in I felt it clear out a couple burrs I'd clearly missed.
Also, I was trying to make a 68mm spindle fit in a 73mm shell, and that just won't work; no, not if it was ever so. It's all better now; thanks!
So I got this sweet deal on a nice old Raleigh, the Super Course with the Nervex lugs, and blah blah blah insert impressive pedigree here. Anyway, I am having just one hell of a time finding a BB spindle that will work. Wait, back up: I am also having one hell of a time getting the fixed cup seated all the way-- it's still about 3mm out from the BB shell. Lots of solvent to clean the threads, even used a dental pick to clear out any googe in the thread valleys, and a thin layer of Phil grease to smoove things out-- all have had no effect on this. The threads are clean, no burrs or mangled threads... Is this normal? I've never really putzed around with fixed cups before. Do I just need to throw caution to the wind and let my biceps channel Chuck Norris for this?
Now, even accounting for this, my other issue is that all the spindles I am finding have their cone sections too close together; I need to screw the left-hand cup WAY into the BB shell. I mean, it is actually recessed into the shell before the bearings seat; obviously, this makes getting the lockring on somewhat problematic.
Now, Sheldon Brown says that the Super Course used British Standard threading in the BB, and given that I can run the cup so far in, I've got to believe that at least the threads are in agreement and that's kosher. But what's up with the spindle? Do I need a different spindle that has more distance between the cones? Or is there some oddball Nottinghamshire cup that accounts for this and moves the bearings toward the races?
What gives? Am I gonna shoot my eye out or something?