Locks that work

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  • or have a look at these from the torc-anchors guys.

    i got my bike chain from them. good guys, good and honest service, good prices, too.
    sold secure gold(bike)/silver (scooter) should do it for me.

    for paranoids go 13mil and you'll sleep better.

    Sorry reeen, but what you're recommending is directly opposite to what this thread is about, and the recommendations and discussions on page 1 of this thread. As already discussed, 9, 10 and 11mm chains are specifically recommended AGAINST, as they are relatively easily defeated by hand powered bolt croppers.

    This is why only 16mm chain thickness are recommended, as they have not been cut by hand powered bolt croppers. In fact, Almax have a video showing how easy it is to cut chains with 11mm thickness. Again, its in the first post of this thread.

  • Oooo

    but, but ... :S

  • what is the lightest of the alarmed locks?

    currently i have the faggettaboutit and an abus steeloflex

    from here i have grave concerns re the steeloflex

    if i am to carry on with the nyfag, then i am assuming an alarmed lock would be a good idea

  • an alarmed lock is a brilliant idea to carry, some of them are very deafened to the point it hurt the offender's ears.

    it make it easier for me to carry lock now, before I used to carry Fah Mini and Evo Mini, now it's Evo Mini and alarm lock.

  • EDIT: Fark!! Scoble got there first! ;)

    James I don't think there's much difference in the weights to be honest. Though some are a little smaller in size, and therefore might be lighter. They're all so similar, as the design is copied exactly from one company to another.

    If I was flush, I'd get the Xena alarmed U-lock, which is made of stainless steel. A good two-in-one design IMO.

  • scrambles to top of list to do research on costs

  • fuck, the xena shackle locks with alarm are 3kg each

  • Just a quick question does any one know the difference between the Abus granit steel-o-flex 1000 and the 1050, other than the locking system. I.e is the cable section the same?

    The reason is that I thought the major method of breaking a steel-o-flex was cutting so really there is no benifit of the 1050. I was just wondering because i use a 1000 as my secondary locking source.

  • ABUS Steel-O-Flex 1000 and the ABUS Steel-O-Flex 1050 do appear to have the same 25mm thick cable.

    neilp, your suspicions are correct.

  • Cool thats what I thought from looking at the Abus site, I just wasn't sure if one was made from a slightly harder steel.

    So really the 1050 has minimal advantage

  • does anyone know how much the Kryptonite NY M18 weighs? Can't find any info on google.

  • hi,

    im planning on buying these two:
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-Kryptoflex-Cable-Lock-9-3/dp/B000LF86IC/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=ITKBLUPJ4O6WP&colid=19S38KKYCHIFI
    &
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000OZ9VLU/ref=s9_simh_gw_p200_i1?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1K64GVVXQJGGVAM3EDDC&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=467128533&pf_rd_i=468294

    The idea is to have the mini for quick stops, locking my rear wheel and frame to a pole. (wheels are bolted)
    Then i have the cable to lock my front wheel as well for longer periods.

    Is this a good idea - general lock setup-wise?
    Better alternatives? - im going for the yellow krypto as having the 'best lock out there' reputation and going for the mini + cable as I think anything stronger will weigh an awfull lot on my back(pack)..
    Pricing on both seem reasonable as well..

    suggestions are welcome

  • I've got a cable but I never use it because they're all so flimsy. Wish I'd saved my money to be honest.

    Fagh Mini is definitely the daddy though, so good choice there. If you get a pitlock or similar for the front wheel, that setup is probably fine.

    I use a New York M18 for frame and rear, and a Mini Evo for the front. If I'm in a particularly dodgy part of town or leaving it for longer than a couple of hours I use a Xena alarm. My bike isn't particularly amazing, but I love it too much to let some poxy toerag have it.

  • I've got a cable but I never use it because they're all so flimsy. Wish I'd saved my money to be honest.
    U
    Fagh Mini is definitely the daddy though, so good choice there. If you get a pitlock or similar for the front wheel, that setup is probably fine.

    I use a New York M18 for frame and rear, and a Mini Evo for the front. If I'm in a particularly dodgy part of town or leaving it for longer than a couple of hours I use a Xena alarm. My bike isn't particularly amazing, but I love it too much to let some poxy toerag have it.

    And the prize for BEST SECURED BIKE goes to a tie!!!
    The winners are Steff (post 52) and to Japeseye.

    Respect due. ;)

    But even though the Fagh Mini is the top rated lock, for me its for locking one wheel to the frame. More useful is a longer/wider 18mm lock, so that the wheel AND frame can be secured to an immovable object.

  • GA2G, I get my Fahg through my frame, rear wheel (deep v's) and an immovable object. With a Series 4 for the frame, front wheel and object.

  • Thin steel tubing is lovely, but some, like me, couldn't achieve such a locking technique with a fat-tubed Cannondale like mine. A Fagh Mini wouldn't have the 'reach'.

  • Yeah. My tubes ain't slender.
    Definitely an honour to be given praise by lock-lord GA2G. Franks! ;)

  • And the prize for BEST SECURED BIKE goes to a tie!!!
    The winners are Steff (post 52) and to Japeseye.

    Respect due. ;)

    But even though the Fagh Mini is the top rated lock, for me its for locking one wheel to the frame. More useful is a longer/wider 18mm lock, so that the wheel AND frame can be secured to an immovable object.

    if you just lock your rear wheel within the rear triangle of your frame it ll do because the wheel cannot be pulled through it without removing the lock..
    or is this wrong? - Sheldon Brown method, SB knows best, rite?

  • ^ Like er UTFS

  • NIels - RE: the Kryptonite cable:

    I had a nice sturdy D-lock for frame and one wheel, and the cable for the other wheel. I went and left my bike with D-lock through just the frame and the cable through both wheels. Cable got snipped clean through and both wheels gone. Probably not worth buying the cable unless it's literally for five minute stops.

  • Hey GA2G, how do you rate o-locks/wheel locks such as these:
    Axa-basta.

    My gf and my sister both have Pashleys that come with these to secure the back wheel. I got them Kryptonite NY 3000 locks and those cables and wondering how it'll be best to lock the bike?

    We're able to lock the front wheel + frame + object. Would you recommend this? or NY 3000 at the back & cable the front wheel? Cheers

  • Sorry, I don't know that lock, and have not seen it in use. But I have heard good things about that type of lock, that secures very closely within the frame. Makes access for cutting and leverage, very difficult....apparently.

  • are kryptonite series 2 D-locks anygood? the kryptolock

  • SuperLuca, I suggested in a PM that you have a read of the first post in this thread. It seems that you either don't want to, or you think the topic in the first post is a bit stupid.

    The Krytonite Series 2 D locks are good, but NOT recommended; as they are only 13mm diameter locks. The minimum for this thread is 16mm, with the sole exception of the extra-special ABUS Granit X 54. That lock is superior beyond its dimensions, and there is a plethora of information and test data to support this.

    I'm trusting that you are an alias of someone trying to get a laugh. Here you are. Ha ha.

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Locks that work

Posted by Avatar for GA2G @GA2G

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