Locking Seatpost + Saddle

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  • I'm paranoid that someone will steal my thomson seatpost and brooks saddle so i was wondering if anyone has any experience with locking down their seatposts/saddle. I have a kryptonite cable but alas it doesn't fit through the saddle and the thin kryptonite cable looks absolutely useless.

    I found this - you can't use the QR unless upside down

    Link: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Zefal_Lock_NRoll_QR_Antitheft_Seatpost_Skewer_Set/5360043687/

    Anyone used one before?

    ...Or shall i just downgrade and save a lot of bother?

  • Pitlock or chain-in-inner-tube-through-rails-and-seatstays FTW

  • Bit of chain/innertube if you're that bothered... Pitlock make one too, better than that ^...

  • I have the pitlock one, which is good, just make sure your seatpost collar has parallel flat bits on it rather than at an angle - the pitlock needs to sit on a flat surface. I found this out the hard way and bent the pitlock bolt. Luckily Will@ Hubjub took pity on me and sent me another.
    I'm not too fussed about the saddle, as it looks fucked and is a ladies one - that makes it less desirable to a thief anyway. But if you have a brooks Pitlock also do a saddle keeper - however innertube round piece of chain is a lot cheaper as Joe said.

  • This voodoo..and it is voodoo
    (from wiggle description)

    "They work in exactly the same way as a normal skewer, slide through the hub, make sure it's tight and then close the lever - the trick with Lock N'Roll is, when your bike is the right way up, wheels on the ground and saddle upwards, these skewers cannot be opened once locked over.

    To unlock them, you must invert the bike so it's resting on the saddle and bars with the wheel upwards. If your bike is securely locked upright to a post or rack, Lock N'Roll cannot be opened and your wheels and saddle cannot be stolen, yet you retain the practicality and ease of use of quick release skewers in the event of a puncture, mechanical problem or need to store or transport your bike with wheels and saddle off."

  • One review on there:
    "I found that it didn't fit my clamp, as my standard allen bolt clamp meant it was upside down - and unlocked. A new clamp meant that this security system has cost almost £20 - over 6 times as much as my makeshift solution - which works just as well.
    Great idea, but would I buy one again? Only if my bike had come standard with a quick release skewer that this could replace."

  • I use my secondary lock which is a fairly long chain lock to put through my Brooks, back wheel and to what ever I'm locking it too.
    I also haz a really ugly tight fitting seat cover to draw attention away from the golden Brooksness (even though the massive lock is drawing attention too.)

  • i use a ball bearing glued into the seatpost clamp and seat bolt. tidy and cheap. not so convienient, but how often do you adjust your saddle?

  • but how often do you adjust your saddle?

    When the seatpost slips?

  • How often does your seatpost slip, especially if you have the correct size seatpost for your frame?

    Glued in ball bearing FTW, or buy a new bike.

  • I've gone with the chain-innertube method, i just hope it doesn't backfire and attract more attention.

    I wish thieves didn't exist. I envy people in japan who are able to lock up a carbon koga miyata without a worry using just a cable lock.

  • it takes two minutes to break a chain

  • Tynan has a shit hot anti saddle theft system

  • Ignore all bike cleaning around the seatpost area. My Thomson has been seized in place for over a year. Anyone who steels it is welcome to it for sheer effort and determination that they will have demonstrated.

  • Ignore all bike cleaning around the seatpost area. My Thomson has been seized in place for over a year. Anyone who steels it is welcome to it for sheer effort and determination that they will have demonstrated.

    ^ Exactly the same as my method. Works like a charm.

  • ha, mine is seized too

  • i hope mine is not seized but haven't moved it for months. when it is officially spring, may regrease the seatpost and headset. everything else is sealing, zing!.

  • *sealed

  • If using a brooks, there is enough clearance to use an additional pitlock to keep the saddle mated to the post.

  • I would reccomend a type of clamp called the 'iLock' which basically clamps the saddle to the frame through the wheel. This means you use the saddle as a lock, though admittedly you would have to chain up the bike aswell

  • Welding the bolts works a treat.

  • I know this thread ias a year old, but since I have just finished my new bike and taking the saddle with me is no longer the ideal option, I though I will ask my stupid question.

    Has anybody actually had their saddle stolen with the chain + inner tube option?

  • i live in ireland.. and i had my flite saddle stolen with the chain and inner tube method..

    but it seemed to work for the good part of 3 years.. i just think the guy was determined.

    its pretty handy and i think if the ''theif'' wants your saddle bad enough it doesnt matter what method you use they'll always get it..

  • ^ I suppose you are right, if they want your bike or any part badly enough, they'd find a way. Did you just use an old chain?

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Locking Seatpost + Saddle

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