The best bicycle tools ever!

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  • @RHB. I helped design the latest Cyclus range, so it better had work!

    It feels good. Headset (Cheap PZ one) not up to the job though.

  • Anything that isnt a Stronglight isnt worth it. it's either too cheap so its shite, or too expensive (Yes, You Mr king).

  • I've a CK on another bike... a luxury.

    With this PZ one, it appears that when tightening the star nut I hammered in it's just pulling it out. What's the best tool to stop that happening? ;)

  • a threaded fork and a proper headset! Otherwise a better quality star washer, made with better quality spring-steel.

  • Ta. Will upgrade the starnut but maybe better to just get a whole new headset.

  • there are a few alternatives to SFN, i.e. headlocks, hope hed doctor, x-lite thing...

  • good point :)

  • yep, i have the 1-20Nm norbar

    about £60 from toolstop.co.uk

    get the 1-20 version, there is another similar one but with plastic bits but it is not so precise

    norbar get rebranded by many other companies

  • Mine would be my big red tool chest. Not strictly a tool but makes all the jobs so much easier!!!

  • evans own brand multi tool got free off a friend used for two years now at least twice a week no problem best free thing i ever got

  • All over the blogs but still a cute solution; a U-lock 15mm socket

  • For those heavy MTB's

  • yep, i have the 1-20Nm norbar
    about £60 from toolstop.co.uk
    This one? £72.95. What's the deal with getting them recalibrated - cheaply done?

  • All over the blogs but still a cute solution; a U-lock 15mm socket

    Quite groovy (if you're a d-lock carrier).

  • can also use it to stamp people with a tracknut of doom when dishing out d-lock justice*

  • I'd rather take a good lock and a spanner over a potential crappy lock with a novelty tool attached to it.

  • This one? £72.95. What's the deal with getting them recalibrated - cheaply done?

    No problem checking the calibration of a torque wrench as long as you have a known weight and a ruler.

    Just fit the wrench (maybe via an adapter) to a socket extension placed horizontally in a vice.
    Turn against the ratchet until the handle is horizontal.
    Hang the known weight from the handle near the head of the wrench, then slide it along until the wrench clicks.
    Measure the inches and multiply by the pounds.
    Don't forget to add half the weight of the wrench at half it's length to the measured value.

    If you do a little pre-calculation you can select a weight that will check the mid-point of the calibration range at about halfway along the handle - then you can use a singe weight to check most of the range, simply by how far along the handle you need to slide it, measured from the centre of the ratchet head.

    e.g. The Norbar 11037 has a maximum capacity of 180 in/lb and an handle length of about 8.5".
    180/8.5=21.2 so a 20lb weight will allow you to check the calibration almost to the top of the range - while when hanging at the ratchet end of the handle it will only be about 0.5" from the pivot, or about 10 in/lb. For more accuracy at lower values just use a smaller weight.
    Add about 3.5 in/lb for the torque applied by the weight of the wrench (0.88lb x 4").

  • No problem checking the calibration of a torque wrench as long as you have a known weight and a ruler.

    Just fit the wrench (maybe via an adapter) to a socket extension placed horizontally in a vice.
    Turn against the ratchet until the handle is horizontal.
    Hang the known weight from the handle near the head of the wrench, then slide it along until the wrench clicks.
    Measure the inches and multiply by the pounds.
    Don't forget to add half the weight of the wrench at half it's length to the measured value.

    If you do a little pre-calculation you can select a weight that will check the mid-point of the calibration range at about halfway along the handle - then you can use a singe weight to check most of the range, simply by how far along the handle you need to slide it, measured from the centre of the ratchet head.

    e.g. The Norbar 11037 has a maximum capacity of 180 in/lb and an handle length of about 8.5".
    180/8.5=21.2 so a 20lb weight will allow you to check the calibration almost to the top of the range - while when hanging at the ratchet end of the handle it will only be about 0.5" from the pivot, or about 10 in/lb. For more accuracy at lower values just use a smaller weight.
    Add about 3.5 in/lb for the torque applied by the weight of the wrench (0.88lb x 4").

    That's very interesting but does not really answer the question 'can you recalibrate a torque wrench if it goes out of whack? how? how much?'

  • Fixes *everything *(ever)

    My pub bike is probably 80% gaffa tape now.

  • Dunno how they managed that mine has survived years of mis-use by my brother.

    Yeah, I've had my park crank puller for over ten years now and no problems but I have noticed the quality of park tools drop over the years.

    This is my favorite tho. 24oz

  • How very witty to cite hammers and gaffa tape! How very alpha male! How very bish bosh job done...

  • Or, How very useful and multi-purpose they are?

    How very witty to cite hammers and gaffa tape! How very alpha male! How very bish bosh job done...

  • How very witty to cite hammers and gaffa tape! How very alpha male! How very bish bosh job done...

    Good luck removing a headset cup or a seized post with your favorite fiddly red chain tool. Sometimes you need to use a hammer and thats the jobs I like doing best. each to their own and all that.

  • Michelin Tyre levers, fuck knows what they make 'em of, some kind of completely unbreakable plastic sourced from a downed UFO.


  • Fixes *everything *(ever)

    My pub bike is probably 80% gaffa tape now.

    Leonard Zinn recommends this stuff as it has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the Universe together.

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The best bicycle tools ever!

Posted by Avatar for Borntoolate @Borntoolate

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