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• #127
Ok, try this, find a bolt that fits the threads of your BB, but has a head small enough for the washer to fit over it, screw this in to the bb, then fit the crank puller as normal but with the smallest cap fitted. that way it should pull the crank arm and washer off over the bolt without mashing the bb threads.
What Crank puller do you have?? -
• #128
Or use freeze spray and a twatting hammer?
Or Pry it out with a bladed screwdriver?
Or use a car ball joint splitter between the crank and the bb end caps? -
• #129
can you get a little screwdriver in from the other sider and tap it out with a hammer?
I wouldn't ride it as this could round off your crank...
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• #130
You've made a right fcuking mess of that and you wanted to work part time in a bike shop ;o))
BLAH, this is kind kind of thing i want to learn to not do!
part time solution - popped on some old cranks. chainline is out by about 4mm, and spinning a perilously spinny 54GI as 32tooth is only chainring i have in 4 arm. blahefhasfkajsdf
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• #131
i will try some suggestions later, at the moment i'm a little worn out.
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• #132
whack an m10 or whatever is appropriate through the hole in the washer, screw a bolt with a big head in so it projects just above the crank, then lever it up with a levery type thing trapped between the top of the crank and the bottom of the bolt head..
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• #133
Depending on the type bottom bracket and tool availability I'd remove the other side crank arm and unscrew the bb so that the whole thing comes off with the troublesome crank arm attached. Then using a vice to hold the BB spindle I'd gently tap the back of the crank using a wooden or rubber mallet until it pops off.
After 5 minutes of gentle tapping I might regress to frustrated hammering if it didn't pop off.
For sheared bolts you can use what is called an 'easy out'. It's like a reverse threaded drill bit. They are notoriosly fickle things to use. It might work. I have a set I can lend you but don't live in London so...
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• #134
I like the idea of fitting a bolt (possibly a set-screw) as something to push against and going for the crank puller again...
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• #135
The easiest solution would be to remove the BB(+ crank arm) and work from there. This may not be possible though.
I'd carefully drill small holes into the washer, screw in some small screws, and then use them as leverage to twist the washer out (in the direction of the threading).*
(*bit of a fib. I'm not that patient. Once the drills out, the credit card + Ebay usually follow ;) )
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• #136
for the moment i have left this as is so that i can consider the options rationally. one that i think might work is to get a bolt and try and "thread" the washer onto it and then yank the bolt out.
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• #137
for the moment i have left this as is so that i can consider the options rationally.
Wisest statement on the thread.
I tended to struggle with a bike meching problem untill it was either solved, or put beyond solution*, before sleeping on it.
I now try a few sensible solutions, then sleep on it before getting inventive. I've saved a fair bit of money since this change in approach :)
(*I've got a nice pic of a frame with two drill bits, snapped and embedded in the BB and shell, on here somewhere)
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• #138
i managed to drill a frame for recessed brake bolt, that went nice and smoothly - no snaps!
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• #139
I haven't tried this with bikes, but it's worked well with car bits, hence I'd advise caution but...
assuming it's a metal washer, I'd heat the whole caboodle up in the oven till it gets nice and toasty (10-15 minutes) then take it out and allow it to cool. the lower volume of the washer will allow it to cool (however contract minutely) faster than the rest of the crank, which should loosen it sufficiently to allow you to prise it out. it may take a couple of attempts, and no doubt some ridicule, but a sound theory in my opinion...
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• #140
i'd go with Joe and Al's idea, get yourself an old crankbolt and cut the head off and then screw it in so it sticks out abouve the washer a mil or two then screw in the crank extracter and work as normal, making sure you are pressing against the bolt and not the washer, i'd probably put some grease on the bolt threads as well as you will need to make sure you can get it out later (and it will have no head),
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• #141
Awwwww man, This just happened to me and my driveside sugino 75, I've taken them off a couple of times before, and they always seemed awful tight. Im using a campagnolo centaur bb. I do not think that alloy threads are designed to withstand that much force, I was applying alot of torque to the end of my crank puller, I thought my crank was slowly coming off, turns out it was my crank puller slowly removing threads. : ( No, no, fucking no. : (
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• #142
I need to get a crank off..the one with the chainring, the thread is completely destroyed..any tips on how to get it off?
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• #143
angle grinder or ball joint remover
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• #144
I use this kind of bearing puller, spreads the load on the crank better than the finger type:
1 Attachment
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• #145
Do you want to keep the crank? If not, remove the crank bolt and ride.
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• #146
Soak with WD40 (maybe not wise if it's a cup and cone BB), douse with hot water slowly, lie bike on side with crank tool in the crank bolt hole (ie. to stop the side of the bike from actually contacting the ground) and bash with hammer. Repeat as necessary.
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• #147
Hi guys, but after having a look through the forums, I cant find any relevant threads titled Crank Removal. If I wanted to remove the ones here:
would i just need a large allen key? It's a 6-sided hole but have never taken a pair off before so unsure!?
Thanks.
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• #148
[ame="http://www.google.co.uk/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=how+to+remove+a+crankset"]how to remove a crankset - Google Search[/ame]
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• #150
but seriously, you might need a [ame="http://www.google.co.uk/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=crank+puller"]crank puller[/ame] too. If you need to borrow one I have one in E3.
A few minutes' ride might do it. Or get the end of an old coat hanger and try to hook it out, or a screwdriver, or... (do wear safety glasses though)...