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i recall posting about this strange phenomenon a while back, ie taste fading. i think i concluded, sagely, that preference is fugacious and self-reflexive by nature, whereas the ego is perdurable and arbitary; the concomitant dissonance being sufficient to blow one's tiny mind, as Jimi Hendrix once opined.
Or maybe I'm just riding the MTB more because the weather's shit. One or the other...
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Not at all.
I did look into this before I went with the belt drive, as I was always keen on the Pro II trials hub. I figured the possiblity of adding a rear mech and some cassette rings could be useful. I also guess the reduced width of the cassette would reduce the likelyhood of droping the chain, if you go 1x6. Never did find out how easy it is to limit the derailer enough, or wether a short arm derailer would do the trick.
It was 1*6 I was thinking of, but there seems to be a lot of tinkering to get something like that working. I've only got the one off-roader, and I'd hate for it to be off the road while I'm trying to get it working.
My MTB is quite basic, but I'm putting cash aside and will be hitting it with an upgrade Blitzkreig one of these days. Shed a kilo or two and add some shiny bits.
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It was 1*6 I was thinking of, but there seems to be a lot of tinkering to get something like that working.
I think I'd go with SRAM 10-sp Double Tap Flat Bar levers if I were attempting that kind of 1x6 job, just because the "Exact Actuation" system uses the same cable pull for every shift, so it wouldn't matter if you end up using positions 1-6 on the lever and 3-8 on the rear derailleur, for example. A short cage road rear mech has plenty of capacity for any reasonable six pack.
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Gazelle came in the post today!
The Rixon is nearly finished, just need contact points sorting for it to be rideable!
Very nice I love those wheels I can't stop buying deep section wheels at the moment ,just bought a pair of cxp30's for the EM
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I think I'd go with SRAM 10-sp Double Tap Flat Bar levers if I were attempting that kind of 1x6 job, just because the "Exact Actuation" system uses the same cable pull for every shift, so it wouldn't matter if you end up using positions 1-6 on the lever and 3-8 on the rear derailleur, for example. A short cage road rear mech has plenty of capacity for any reasonable six pack.
It was a road mech and shifter (flat bar version) I was thinking about. Lots of weight weenie XC riders do similar things to shed a bit of weight. So There'll be a few pre tried solutions out there I'd imagine.
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I can't stop buying deep section wheels at the moment
You're mental! ;)
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Gazelle came in the post today!
The Rixon is nearly finished, just need contact points sorting for it to be rideable!
What are those bars? what width too?
They look lovely.
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You're mental! ;)
I think i have O
cd -
OCD that looks better
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second dibs : )
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By the way KC, nice build a few pages back. Hope it's a keeper ;-)
@ boon. stunning!
Cheers sure is all the bikes I have now are keepers but will get changed in one way or another.
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Long time reader, first time post. Started my first SS project, a Raleigh Equipe I picked up via Gumtree.
Waiting on a few components to arrive, but so far so good. The plan is to get this down to Amourtex in the next couple of weeks. Will post again once it is complete. This site has been invaluable in working out how to do things. Looking forward to making it to the West London meetups soon!
Fasih
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... I think the lo-pro is better than the track bike for the environment in question. I really do. I'm just about to sell all my "track" frames off and just keep the lo-pro....
are there rule-of-thumb sizing guides for lo pros? I know what height of seat and head tube I would like, but the sloping of top- and seat tubes has me confused.
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are there rule-of-thumb sizing guides for lo pros?
No. First of all, you have to decide which hand position(s) you're trying to replicate from your normal drop bar bike. If it's not the hook of the drops, then you're really wasting your time with a lo-pro, because that's the only position they were made to mimic. Assuming you've got your head around that, the next problem is that there is a huge variation of both reach and drop between different bull horn bars. So, your next task is to find a handlebar whose shape is really going to agree with you when it is positioned at the height of your drops - this is not likely to be easy just by riding with it in the much higher and further forward position you'd get with the same bar on a normal sized frame. Finally, when you have your bar sorted out, you can work backwards to the correct stem clamp position and select a frame which will allow you to hit that mark with a sensible and available length/drop stem.
I actually had my lo-pro custom built using the above method, and coming from a Cinelli 66 shape drop bar to a Cinelli LA84 bull horn required a shortening of the effective TT length + stem length of 4cm, from 57+10 to 54+9
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Why is the brake mounted on the inside of the rear triangle of the yellow bike mdcc?
Pure affectation. It was actually my TT bike back in the 1980s, and I haven't got around to flipping the brake round, although it is on my to do list.
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loving that red gazelle pistoffski, gonna be a sweet build.
put my replacement for the Copacetic together on Saturday and managed to clock up forty miles getting round town that day. and been riding it since and it feels good. light (7.7kg) and stiff. don't really need to change it much though my Chesini will need the seatpost back when track opens. thanks to skoota for the bars and konjin for the stem. and the most dire thanksgiving to the good lord for giving us all the blacktop.
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No. First of all, you have to decide which hand position(s) you're trying to replicate from your normal drop bar bike. If it's not the hook of the drops, then you're really wasting your time with a lo-pro, because that's the only position they were made to mimic. Assuming you've got your head around that, the next problem is that there is a huge variation of both reach and drop between different bull horn bars. So, your next task is to find a handlebar whose shape is really going to agree with you when it is positioned at the height of your drops - this is not likely to be easy just by riding with it in the much higher and further forward position you'd get with the same bar on a normal sized frame. Finally, when you have your bar sorted out, you can work backwards to the correct stem clamp position and select a frame which will allow you to hit that mark with a sensible and available length/drop stem.
I actually had my lo-pro custom built using the above method, and coming from a Cinelli 66 shape drop bar to a Cinelli LA84 bull horn required a shortening of the effective TT length + stem length of 4cm, from 57+10 to 54+9
all very well, but that doesn't help me with my riser barred lo-pro :-)
Sparky
gbj_tester
micky1234
boon
kingcutter
Smallfurry
StandardPractice
TomBurtonArt
nuknow
Ivandaterrible
mr_lunch
31trum
fasih
starfish&coffee
marie
Ordinata
jonny
kerley-
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powdercoated?