Running fixed hub and quick release

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  • Anyone else tried this as it seems to work fine?

  • The time will show...

  • I have always thought it was only track use where a close battle may open a qr that precluded the use of one as it has never presented a problem on one of my wheels that I time trial on

  • have you a horizontal drop out? If you have the decent metal qr nuts then they are normally fine

  • according to sheldon it's doable, it just requires a QR lever that's got a good strong camming action that'll lock the wheel in place strong enough - however i'm not sure if sheldon brown tested the theory in an extreme fixie skidder™ environment.

  • Yes horizontal dropouts and campag skewers i'm not a skidder and use a front brake its only on my tt bike where I may need a quick change I don't use qr on my other fixed bikes

  • Using a normal peanut butter wrench on M10x1 tack nuts provides about 4 times as much dropout clamping force as a good (i.e. Campag or Shimano) enclosed cam QR, but it turns out that you don't need it, otherwise people would have been pulling their wheels out of the dropouts for years on all the old long dropout road frames we're now using as conversions. Chain tension is what matters, and is reduced by using a bigger chainring, so always use the biggest ring that's handy to get your gear - 51/17 is much better than 39/13 for all sorts of reasons.

  • mdcc, why did old road bikes have horizontal dropouts in the first place?

  • UTFS.. Use The Fucking Sheldon..

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html#qr

  • mdcc, why did old road bikes have horizontal dropouts in the first place?

    There is "folk wisdom" about the perceived utility of horizontal dropouts on bikes which don't need them for chain length adjustment, but really I'm pretty sure they were just a carry over from earlier single speed machines which took a long time to die out, even after the derailleur hanger got integrated into the right dropout. Over the years, bicycle engineers have applied themselves with tremendous zeal to certain areas of design, while studiously ignoring other things which are assumed to be either right or necessary just because they have been ever thus.

  • i use it and have done for almost 2-3 months and it seems to be fine

  • so always use the biggest ring that's handy to get your gear - 51/17 is much better than 39/13 for all sorts of reasons.

    oops, so my 34/14 is not big or clever (literally on both counts)

    Still, the wheel doesn't budge but then I do almost snap my spanner in half every time I do the wheel up.

  • I used it for a couple of weeks and it was fine, but I changed it over to solid axle just in case, it wasn't the best q/r. Stops it getting nicked as easily too

  • The QR doesn't care whether it's being used on a fixie or a geared bike EXCEPT that the chain tension (which is what causes axle creep) is inversely proportional to the number of teeth on your rear sprocket for a given wheel size. So if you're running 38 x 14 like me, the chain tension is pretty high when climbing, compared to a geared bike where you might have a 25 on the back. With the usual "road bike" 48 x 18, it's much of a muchness.

    What I don't know, because I've never tried it, is how easy it is to tension the chain using a QR hub. Probably easier than with bolts or nuts.

  • Chain tension is what matters, and is reduced by using a bigger chainring, so always use the biggest ring that's handy to get your gear - 51/17 is much better than 39/13 for all sorts of reasons.

    Mr MDCC - I'm very curious. I had no idea (generally, i know!) about how different combinatons of what may equate to the same ratios.... make a difference. And specifically with regards to chain tension.

    What do i even begin to say in order to search this without it taking half a page on a google search??

    S/

  • A good article here on chain tension and gearing choice.

    http://www.gsportbmx.co.uk/support/rideuktech/super_small_gears.html

  • A good article here on chain tension and gearing choice.

    http://www.gsportbmx.co.uk/support/rideuktech/super_small_gears.html

    Nice article that

  • A good article here on chain tension and gearing choice.

    http://www.gsportbmx.co.uk/support/rideuktech/super_small_gears.html

    I am enlightened, that's was truly fascinating.
    I do love that techy shit :)
    marches off to find massive chainring

    Cheers (Tommy)

  • Yep, now I know what I wasn't able to sell my Shimano 39T chainset on here - even though it makes up a nice gear ratio with 14T sprocket:-)

  • "of course if you lived in Sheffield you would have at least one world class elephant highdiving training centre which you have to pay an enormous amount of council tax towards and never gets used, and the council would be planning a second) but for some reason your diving board is broken and just hangs limply over the pool."

  • Good Q/r will work fine. Something like an oldish campag one or something. A friend has run brakeless with one of these for 2/3 years with no problem.

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Running fixed hub and quick release

Posted by Avatar for edric @edric

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