Chain tension and tensioning a chain

Anyway, I don't like my chain too tight, it has to be not slack but not silly tight as it's noisier and doesn't feel right.

I like Curb Your Enthusiasm :)

Yes, I think both pictures are necessary. No point shying away from things - something that's endemic with these kind of 'man conditions'. Let's get it all out in the open. Your balls twist, usually for genetic reasons. You risk losing a testicle and other undesirable side-effects. They cut your scrotum open, put a couple of tethering stitches in place, and hopefully that's the end of it; with 'it' being intermittent excruciating debiliatating pain with the risk of 'testicle death'.

Both cliveo and I had kids, post-op, but the chances would've been halved, presumably, if we hadn't been up front about things, and got it sorted.

I was back on my bike within 2 weeks, although not back in the saddle for closer to 4 :O

The reason why hardened steel chains wear faster than alu chainrings as far as I can work out:
Contact area of chainring against chain = lots. (lets say 24 teeth x about 20mm square, approx 480mm sq.)
Contact area of one pin against two steel link plates = tiny. (If plates are 1mm thick, that's about 12.5mm sq.)

Divide hardness of chainring by area in contact,
Divide hardness of steel pin by area in contact with link plates.

The pin always loses.

If there is too much tension in the chain, some wear will come from grit between links and chainring but the pins still bear the brunt of the stretching force. The total force is not shared by all the links, the same total force goes through each and every link.

Raises hand, thanks to being issued an ill-fitting one by the same cruel gods who gave me twisty balls :(

I must've been even more of a cunt in a past life.

+1

fuckin ill fitting foreskins.

I still attest that this condition stunted the growth of what would otherwise have been an acceptably proportioned willy.

Can someone post something here please...

ahhh...learn I will, daniel-son
really though how many chain rings are alu? thought most would have been more badass alloy than lightweight foil. seems like a daft place to have a soft metal.
assumed that tight-as-poss chain (whilst not putting silly pressure on the bearings) would have meant for better transmission vs slower? especially when applying reverse pressure?

Most of my chainrings are alu.
It's heat-treated and hardened but it stills wears quicker than steel rings.
It's not like you swap them every ride.

Whilst no physics expert, a tight as possible chain means extra friction. Extra friction means wasted energy.

Perfecto..

I still attest that this condition stunted the growth of what would otherwise have been an acceptably proportioned willy.

I think the side-effects are more psychological than physiological i.e. you spend (in my case) 14 years of your life, or around half that time if you're looking at years with a sexually active imagination, associating erections with constrictive pain. Sounds like a primer for a lifetime of masochism.

On the other hand, maybe experiencing that kind of pain in your sexually formative years is what actually stops you from getting into S&M. I'm sure masochism works for some men, but for those for whom it's a manifestation of damaging psychological issues, perhaps they'd have been better off getting strangled by an overly tight skin beanie during adolescence, and henceforth rejecting sexual pain?

It's 9.13am.

Most of my chainrings are alu.
It's heat-treated and hardened but it stills wears quicker than steel rings.
It's not like you swap them every ride.

Whilst no physics expert, a tight as possible chain means extra friction. Extra friction means wasted energy.

Perfecto..

is that you? or is that an example of perfection? (or in your opinion, both)

just wondering as you claim not to be a physicist but the dude in the pic has a 'science in sport' top on...how coincidental

Er, ok, is there anything we can do to avoid this then? Would they feel literally twisted?

I like Curb Your Enthusiasm :)

Yes, I think both pictures are necessary. No point shying away from things - something that's endemic with these kind of 'man conditions'. Let's get it all out in the open. Your balls twist, usually for genetic reasons. You risk losing a testicle and other undesirable side-effects. They cut your scrotum open, put a couple of tethering stitches in place, and hopefully that's the end of it; with 'it' being intermittent excruciating debiliatating pain with the risk of 'testicle death'.

Both cliveo and I had kids, post-op, but the chances would've been halved, presumably, if we hadn't been up front about things, and got it sorted.

I was back on my bike within 2 weeks, although not back in the saddle for closer to 4 :O

If you've got the congenital (genital) condition, you'd have been experiencing the symptoms regularly since puberty.

It can be brought on by the most mundane of activities e.g. getting out of bed, having a bath, blah.

They don't really feel twisted - and remember, this isn't the both of them entangling; it's the epididymis for one of them twisting up in of itself. The sensation is more like having a bollock in a vice-like grip, where contact from certain angles causes even more exquisite pain.

There's also a sort of knock-on deep in your gut ache and cramping - my wife said that aspect sounded a bit like bad period pains.

Sometimes the offending bollock can be manipulated so as to untwist, but it's a bit hit and miss. The epididymis gets increasing swollen, and trying to guess which way to *untwist *is a lottery.

Other times it miraculously disappears, often during the most mundane activities e.g. getting out of bed, having a bath, blah.

The chain is not only tight because the rear sprocket is bigger but it is wider. So if you are running a 3/32 chain the 1/8 sprocket is too wide and will be VERY TIGHT dont ride it until you get the sprockets/ chain matching or at least sprockets thinner than the chain.

The chain is not only tight because the rear sprocket is bigger but it is wider. So if you are running a 3/32 chain the 1/8 sprocket is too wide and will be VERY TIGHT dont ride it until you get the sprockets/ chain matching or at least sprockets thinner than the chain.

IF he had the wrong combination of 3/32 chain and 1/8 sprocket it would be more than very tight wouldn't it? It would be rideable as the chain wouldn't mesh with the sprocket at all.

my chain was too tight once.. and when i went to haul ass it snapped and i flipped over the bars.. this was in the middle of a crowd, i felt awesome :D

smooth move sir

I can't seem to get any sort of 'even' tension at all....
I'm aware that chain rings/bolts etc aren't totally accurate and there will be some slack at some point in the cycle/revolution. My problem is that i feel a get too much difference in each cycle. From almost too tight to 1" of play through the cycle??
it juts doesn't feel right.
Ok, it might be that the chain has stretched mid way??!! doubt?
or the chain ring is way off center??
Puzzled.... I just can't seem to find a happy medium.

sounds like chainring is off centre, click to fix.

^yeah, i've read this. I guess i'll have to give it a go.
I'm just a bit dubious as there doesn't seem to be enough give in the crank bolts to justify the difference in tension that i'm experiencing?! will just have to give it a go.
Thanks

well there may still be tight spots because of slightly unround chainring and cog but should make the problem less severe

I'll try and post some before and after pics (not tonight tho..)
I say that beacuse i'm still not convinced it will be sufficient to make up for the difference shrugs
lets see..... cheer though, will keep you posted. S/

Hi everyone,

First of all please accept my apologies. I'll explain, when I signed up to this forum I intended to purchase a Charge Grinder but I read lots about single speed bikes and decided that someone who is older, overweight, not really fit, (I just travel a commute of 4 miles, although I have done this for a year now), and have dodgy knees, yes basically falling apart.

Anyway I have ended up purchasing a Charge Mixer, with 8 speed hub gear. I bought from Evans and it arrived yesterday, ok the pedals were missing but I have managed to find a couple to get me out of trouble until the others arrive.

Now my question, the chain tension seems to be very tight, when I was younger I was always taught that there should be a 1/2" play but mine can be moved about 1/2" but I am having to use a lot of force to do so. Another thing, when I try to spin the pedals backwards they don't spin freely and grind to a stop within 16th of a turn.

Is this right?

If it isn't, the adjustment is via an eccentric bottom bracket, now there are 2 allen grub screws underneath that I guess would need to be loosened so that the BB can be turned to adjust the tension, but do I need a special tool for this? I tried last night without a tool but it would turn at all. And do you only need to do one side and it will do both sides. Sorry haven't much knowledge on this sort of thing.

If I haven't made any sense, please ask and I'll try and make mysel clearer:)

it does sound like your chain is too tight, if you don't feel confident adjusting it yourself, then evans should be willing to fix it for free.

if you want to do it yourself, these should help.

http://www.rodcycle.com/articles/eccinstructions.pdf
http://www.tandem-club.org.uk/cgi-bin/db_config.pl?noframes;read=5473
http://www.cannondale.com/asset/iu_files/techcenter/2003_eccentric_bb_chain_adjustment_owners_manual_supplement_en.pdf

as to why your pedals don't spin backwards, you may have a coaster brake?

Not had time to read through all the chain tension threads so sorry if this has been dealt with before.

No matter how tight I do up my rear SS wheel over a week it always starts to lose tension.
I just wondered if this is a common issue?

I know that chain pre-tensioners are a soloution but I don't see them much on track bikes.
Plus its more of a faff when fixing flats etc.

Any help/advice appreciated,

Ta