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• #2
Seen this done on custom chopper bikes in the states but dont know how they finish them. Exile cycles did one might be something on their website you could adapt for bicycle use
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• #3
B&Q do matt laquer. Won't stop the rust all together but might help slow down the process.
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• #4
let it rust to the level you want then clear coat?
still looks really nice IMO and will preserve the frame better. -
• #5
Not sure what the effects of blasting are on steel but on alu it leaves a horrible pitted surface.
I guess this might give the rust a head start on steel, or it may just help it get into the fabric of the metal and be more damaging.
I always nitromors frames and treat them like a non stick pan if im going to leave it bare or just lacquer it ie no abrasives.
I'm pretty sure that in america they just strip the paint n leave the metal to it's own devices and just keep the bike/hotrod in the garage on the 2 days of the year that it rains.
Bit of a different story when we have to ride around on an inch of grit salt on the roads. -
• #6
Once rusted you could coat it with Ankor Wax for the rat effect.
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• #7
Something which I may try when is too use copper paint.
You can polish it too a high shine then leave it and it will develop verdigris.
Something a bit different than the rat look I thought.
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• #8
could you get a frame copper plated instead of using paint?
gun bluing would look nice as well.
mmm patina -
• #9
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• #10
I guess copper will look pretty lame til it dulls down and verdigris'd up a bit.
That bike is awful. -
• #11
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• #12
clear coat rust won't work as it will just peel off?!?
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• #13
they guys at shop 14 have a very nice copper plated bike currently shiny shiny
but to op .... get frame sand blasted and take it to brighton for the weekend, a couple of dips in the sea and things'll get rusting in next to no time
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• #14
Have the lugs chromed!?
Chroming means three different platings (after some other nasty shit), chroming being the last, first two are nickel then copper I think. How are you going to get that stuff off the other bits of tube that will get dipped in order to chrome the lugs? Seems like a massive expense in order to make a 'scruffy' bike. Apart from anything else, chroming is really bad for the environment.
Just powdercoat it, or let it rust all over.
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• #15
you can get a chrome powdercoat now, as for the rust issue i know loads of mx boys have bare pipes n to stop the rust going mental the scotchbrite them, i reckon itd look quite nice on a frame like that
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• #16
Would it not just be a case of vinegaring everything except the lugs?
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• #17
Bad pic of my rusted clear coated Olmo and hand polished lugs ;)
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• #18
yeah. no need to chrome the lugs - just give them a good polish. way easier/cheaper.
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• #19
Maintaining an oxidised finish without it becoming pitted is best achieved by wiping with Linseed oil from time to time. A clear coat of lacquer or varnish would simply peel off.
But please, please, please don't subject your 1948 Soens to deliberate rusting.
It would be sacrilege to subject an ultra-rare hand-built 60-year old frame to this. Heck, it's lasted this long, why not try to preserve it instead of wrecking it? Why not do this to something that isn't so precious instead?
The chroming process could also make the very thin butted 531 tubing lose temper and you'll lose all of its 'life'.
If you have any feeling for old bikes, please don't do it.
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• #20
Thanks everyone. Last piece of advice undoubtedly the best.
I would still love to have a rusty ride so hopefully all this advice will come in handy soon, but you're right, Wheelnut – putting the Soens through that is a rank idea.I've got some vintage German pedals and moustache bars on their way and hopefully Sargent & Co. can help me find a decent old chainring and crankset.
Big thanks for making me see the light.
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• #21
Hello Japeseye. I notice that you are after a crankset. I currently have a Stronglight 49a crankset, which was manufactured between 1933 and 1960. I can date mine to the mid 50's. Despite this, they are a perfect crankset for your bike.
I would be looking for £100 for the crankset and a 49t Williams chainring. the chainring is chromed, with no pitting or peeling and has minimal wear and is of a similar period to the cranks.
The cranks are english threaded, and have been rechromed professionally. They have been given the tripple plate treatment for extra durability. The cranks are also cottered, however, don't let this put you off. I can probably include a set of decent quality cotter pins for free, and a huge selection of cottered BB's and english threaded cups for an extra £15.The 49D model regularly sells on e-bay for in excess of £100 with a chainring. the last time I saw a 49A on e-bay, it sold for in excess of £150.
No pictures at the moment, but if you PM me, I will take some.
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• #22
Sorry to hijack this but MC Nebula I'd be interested in taking a cottered BB from you if you have spares?
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• #23
I have a full set of 49d on my tandem. They are pure win. You can do anything with them 22t up to ??? Single, double, triple and even quad. They also weigh fuck all if lightweight is your kinda thing.
Just got the slightly inferior(opinion based solely on aesthetics) TA cyclotouriste chainset for my next fixed build, just need an old logo TA 47t 1/8 ring and i'll be a happy man.
Tis a good price from MCNeb, go for it. -
• #24
Thanks so much, Nebula.
Was trying to keep build cheap as possible though. Frame and original cottered bb, seatpost and headset were all just £60 but could I let you know when I hear back from Sargent, hopefully in a week's time? If that's too long for you please don't worry about offering to someone else.
First time I've built a bike myself. Very new to all this so I hope you don't think my reticence or questions are impolite. Seriously chuffed you offered me your crankset. Pictures may sway me! I'm currently running a 48/16 gear ratio. Assuming 49/18 would be faster/more exciting ride?
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• #25
I live a few doors down from Rob Sargent, he's really good but you do have to pester him a bit sometimes as he often takes on more work than he should. That said his new years resolution was to stop being a grumpy shop keeper so hopefully he'll get back to you a bit quicker than he used to!!
Luckily for me I walk past the shop almost every time I leave the house so chasing him up on stuff is easier, also try taking round a couple of ales for him early in the afternoon, that often helps I find.
Need some advice. I've got a '48 Soens frame which I'd like to use as a smart beater. I am keen to blast it, have the lugs chromed, then allow some superficial rust on the rest of the frame.
Thanks to spaghettihoops for info and eddie's bare metal frame thread I have some idea of what I should be doing, but this definitely seems like a dark art.
Just wanted to run my process by you guys to see if you'd do anything differently before I commit myself:
...and now the question...
What is the best way to keep the rust from getting chronic? Just constant love, attention, sanding and oily trousers? Or is it possible to clearcoat the rust without it continuing to eat away at the steel? And then I suppose glossy rust defeats the point really.
Hope I've communicated my questions clearly enough and haven't frightened people away with ridiculously wordy post. Any advice would be very gratefully received, even if it's a dismissive 'give it up and get it powdercoated GBB'.
Ta!
P.S. Before anyone says it, I freely admit to being an idea-thief. Uula Jero has done what I want to do brilliantly, but I suppose if you're going to copy an idea that already exists you might as well make it something beautiful: