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• #2
Cold setting a frame by 15mm is a hell of a lot. I would not recommend it.
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• #3
Sure, you could, but why would you want to?
Why would a track hub not be up to the job? -
• #4
there only looks to be 2mmish of spacers with a massive cone nut.
usual thing for bolt on is to space out a front hub.
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• #5
and goldtec's are strong. and so are phil's. basically unless you plan on doing mentawl stuff, there is nowt wrong with track hubs.
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• #6
Any decent track hub with properly tightened and good quality sprocket and lockring should be strong enough for most things. And they come in 120mm already so no effin about.
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• #7
im sure ive got some cone nuts from some old scrap bikes half the size somewhere, then removing the outer spacer all together and replacing with an m10,
I like the idea of using this for a few reasons, first being its relatively cheap compared to a phil/goldtech,
i'd rather the security of a bolt on cog, i know many will use threaded ones fine its more of a mental thing of having 6 torx bolts as supposed to a lockring,
plus the advantages of running a still having the freewheel if it takes my fancy
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• #8
if they are from old scrap bikes they are probably for loose bearings, therefore not compatible with the sealed bearings on this one.
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• #9
good point, not cone nuts, meaning general hard round thin things that can face up to the bearing
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• #10
if you want a bolt on cog then get a front hub and space it out rather than trying to squeeze in a hub that's waaaaaaaaaaaaay too big
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• #11
yes yes yes we all know i could get an m756 in there, but the reason for not going for one of those is that i would still like the ability to run the freewheel if needs be,
its a 4130 steel frame, would that not make it suitable for cold setting?
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• #12
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
"If, however, you want to do it right, and your frame is steel, cold setting is the better way to go.
If you're going more than one size, say from 120 to 130, or from 126 to 135, you should definitely cold set the frame."
set hub washers down by 2.5mm each side then cold set to 130?
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• #13
hey if you do decide to go for a " proper track hub " I would be very interested in the NS hub
am building an NS Suburban currently and my Hope 2 hub is giving me grief currently would prefer to build up a 26" wheel on that NS hub
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• #14
I run exactly the set up you're talking about on a 135spaced frame - it's also worth thinking about the fact that on a 68mm shell BB you'll need to achieve a 53mm chainline for the bolt on. as an example that's a sugino 75 with a 125 (exist?) taper bb. That'll look shit and be shit. There's a reason 135 frames tend to have 73mm bb shells.
I also use a velosolo respecced shimano front hub with bolton on my everyday bike. For a long time i was mega pro-bolt-on, but I'm coming round to the idea that a good quality track hub plus a really good (read: Durace) lock ring will be absolutely fine.
That is a wicked hub though!
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• #15
Just get the Charge bolt-on hubs instead;
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Charge_Shaka_Rear_Hub/5360044293/
secondly, a threaded hubs is plenty secure enough, there is nothing wrong with a threaded hubs, the only cock-up are usually down to the person installing it.
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• #16
conundrum solved, but cant find them anywhere wiggle and winstanleys out of stock,
livid
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• #17
conundrum solved, but cant find them anywhere wiggle and winstanleys out of stock,
livid
How did you solve the conundrum and what is out of stock?
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• #18
and is the ns up for sale ?
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• #19
I reckon its a certain ex forumenger who's gone rather quiet of late.
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• #20
bolt on cog, with freewheel thread,
charge hub is not in stock.
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• #21
theres no hub for sale, this entire thread has so far been hypothetical
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• #22
Fuck off Charge. Daddy's home.
http://www.philwood.com/products/hubs/track-hubs/iso-track-hubs/
Fuck yeah. Heavy fuckers. Nicer in the flesh though. :P
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• #23
If you can afford one that is.
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• #24
phil = shit
LeVeL= godliness:
http://hubjub.co.uk/level/level.htm -
• #25
Still don't get why people put so much money into hubs. Yes, I appreciate they are nice to look at but they bring no benefits over much cheaper hubs. Assuming the cog/lockring is installed properly on for example a Halo hub then they give zero issues so why need more?
Understand it on a £1000+ build when all the parts will be top spec for the sake of it but I just can't see why the hub price should be a 1/3 or a 1/2 of the total value of the bike!
im looking at trying to squeeze this ns bikes hub into my 120 space track frame, http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/LargeImage.aspx?ModelID=26858&FileName=26858.jpg and use a bolt on cog,
I want something beefier than the usual track hubs, and to me it looks like i could easily remove the spacers and replace with smaller ones, plus its a steel frame which i understand can accept a little strain?
has anyone got any experience of doing this?