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• #2
You could probably buy a rivet gun for the price of a beer. Personally ive never actually seen any headbadges pop rivetted on. They mostly just push-on or are held there by glue.
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• #3
smear of clear mastic will hold it in place
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• #4
Same here! Need a tiny rivet gun . . . anyone?
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• #5
try using small dome-headed philips self-tapping screws, with a bit of silicone to hold them in place, and filling in the philips cross-head bit with some solder.
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• #6
Liquid Nails FTW
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• #7
I could swear I posted on this thread earlier.
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• #8
Come on. It can't be that hard!!
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• #9
Ha - Donut you reminded me I'm still badgeless as I never got round to this. I might just go try get the kit this weekend. If i do I'll let you know.
Otherwise the request is still out there.....
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• #10
I was expecting fascinating stuff, not fastening stuff.
I am disappoint.
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• #11
I tapped my holes and I use a pair of small brass screws loctited in place. Works a treat, looks better on my brass headbadge than ali rivets and is much easier to remove should I ever need to.
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• #12
Ha - Donut you reminded me I'm still badgeless as I never got round to this. I might just go try get the kit this weekend. If i do I'll let you know.
Otherwise the request is still out there.....
Cool. Keep me posted dude.
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• #13
These hammer drive screws look good:
http://www.hansonrivet.com/w58.htm
http://www.toolfastdirect.co.uk/acatalog/Brassed_Hammer_Drive_Screws___Type_U_Round_Head.html
From www.bikeforums.net:"I just reattached my headbadge on a 1983 Raleigh Record ..... the right size was 2-56 (i think thats width and thread) 3/16 long."
"I'll be interested to hear if the drive screws can be pushed out from the inside.....To test this I pushed the drive screws out last night on my Bottecchia frame. I used a long screwdriver and they popped out a couple of millimeters and then I could get behind the heads to coax them out the rest of the way. It took no more than a minute or two to get both screws out and the badge off."
"Schwinn used very small round head sheet metal screws for attaching the headbadges of some models, notably the sixties, seventies, and early eighties Paramounts. They were No. 2 x 1/8" Type B sheet metal screws"
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• #14
mmccarthy fastening??? this thread is so riveting,i keep coming back to it ;-]
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• #15
this thread really has some pop to it
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• #16
These hammer drive screws look good:
http://www.hansonrivet.com/w58.htm
http://www.toolfastdirect.co.uk/acatalog/Brassed_Hammer_Drive_Screws___Type_U_Round_Head.html
From www.bikeforums.net:"I just reattached my headbadge on a 1983 Raleigh Record ..... the right size was 2-56 (i think thats width and thread) 3/16 long."
"I'll be interested to hear if the drive screws can be pushed out from the inside.....To test this I pushed the drive screws out last night on my Bottecchia frame. I used a long screwdriver and they popped out a couple of millimeters and then I could get behind the heads to coax them out the rest of the way. It took no more than a minute or two to get both screws out and the badge off."
"Schwinn used very small round head sheet metal screws for attaching the headbadges of some models, notably the sixties, seventies, and early eighties Paramounts. They were No. 2 x 1/8" Type B sheet metal screws"
I was reading that too. Definately a possibility. I'm also looking at model shops for mini pop rivets.
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• #17
i have a rivet gun, could help out. just need to know how small your rivets are to check if i have the right size tip screw for it to work them. for small rivets, you might want to get the actual rivets your self as i have only some rather beefy ones flying around. i check this eve for you and can get back to you by tomorrow (wed).
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• #18
Cheers Reeen. I trying to find small rivets and working out if they will fit in a normal gun.
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• #19
I'm having a similar issue with riveting head badges. Does anyone have any idea where I might be able to pick up some of those hammer drive screws in London?
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• #20
on my allin frame the head badge is rivetted on using very small bifucated rivits
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• #21
I'm gonna order some Hammer Drive Screws tomorrow as they look like a good option.
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• #22
Hi Donut,
Do you know what size you will be getting? I'd be up for chipping in if the same.
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• #23
just a thought has anyone tried the local model shop, i wouldnt be surprised if they didnt have the stuff sat there ( sorry if a repost but cba reading it all )
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• #24
Just spoke to Argos cycles about this and they suggested using alu rivets from inside the headtube
poking out, sliding the badge on, snipping off the excess pin and rounding off the end with a small hammer or inverted hole punch.Not sure what'll be easiest to do.
Model shop is a good call Ruff, think I suggested that already but forgot to check it out.
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• #25
Ok, so I searched high and low, went to diy shops, model shops, bike shops and workshops
all drew a blank as the best method for re-attaching my headbadge.As above I spoke to Argos Cycles who were very helpful but in based in Bristol.
I also spoke to Bob Jackson and the guy on the phone was very rude and sarcastic, so much so that I hung up on him. Terrible customer service!Anyway . . . I also spoke to Sargent & Co. to see if he could do it, and suggested Vaz Finishes in Hither Green.
So I went to see Mario @ Vaz and he attached the headbadge in 5 minutes.Sorted. I highly recommend him.
Can anyone rivet back on a couple of head badges for me? Got a couple of frames powdercoated but the coater didn't have a rivet gun small enough. Can pay in beer.