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• #27
I had that notch problem with an overtight headset. You can back it off (already mentioned) or re install it at 90 degrees to the original angle (recommended to me by a mechanic) which moves the notch to a place where you can't really feel it. Failing that buy another headset.
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• #28
Are your forks on backwards?
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• #29
yes.
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• #30
they bend towards me. that's the right way isn't it?
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• #31
or does the wheel go on the top and the bars on the bottom?
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• #32
I think you need a bigger hammer.
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• #33
that's the stock response.
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• #34
pop the bearings out of the cages, and find one extra to go in each race...
I have some 3/32, 5/32, 3/16 if you need them tonight. -
• #35
i have no idea what sizes they are. it's a bog standard 80s raleigh headset. i don't own sexybikes.
i think my strategy is this:
1) headset. spanners. me. hotdate. to correct feeling.
2) buy new headset and take to shop on cut.
3) end.fade out.
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• #36
i think my strategy is this:
1) headset. spanners. me. hotdate. to correct feeling.
2) buy new headset and take to shop on cut.
3) end.fade out.
ooooh, that sounds like it needs a montage. I do love a good montage...
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• #37
- Go to store
- Buy spannners
- Fix headset
- ?????
- PROFIT!!!!
- Go to store
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• #38
yes. that is quite possibly how 1.1-1.5 would go.
does anyone have anything else to add and expand within 2 and 3? -
• #39
news in:
murtle power fixed it. backed it off. it's good. Andy P. wins a prize.
will look for new headset.great fixing thread.
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• #40
bumpity bump. lazarus rises.
it's back. notchy steering. with new headset. brinnelling? how serious is this? is it new bike time? new fork time? back to the shop and they'll swap out bearings and everything will be ok?
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• #41
brinnelling is caused from the fork spending most of its time in the straight on position, so the bearings wear holes into the races so they aren't smooth, hense notchyness. how old is the headset? i would have thought it would have taken more than 4 months to do this. anywayz, if it is this, removing the bearings from their cages (assuming it is not sealed) and popping in a few extra balls in the new space should sort it.
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• #42
looking at the thread, the headset was fitted in june/july time. it was loose after fitting, i took it back (within a week i think), it got tightened. it seemed fixed.
noticed this.
tange headset. -
• #43
hmm. i would advise running a pencil/biro over the races to feel for pits.
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• #44
Brinelling is caused from excessive loading. Notches in headsets are rarely caused by brinelling and more often due to lack of lubrication - and not necessarily in a way that you might think. Riding on the road results in lots of vibration going in a straight line, the lubricant on the bearing gets 'moved' and there is metal on metal contact. Over time this metal on metal action cause wear on the softer of the materials in contact - usually the race. If you examine a dimpled headset you'll likely see slightly more wear on the front and rear edges.
Removing the cages and adding extra balls will help. Happening after only 4 months though suggests to me that the cups are not perfectly parallel. If there is even a tiny misalignment it will lead to extra wear. Next time you replace the headset, get your headtube faced, should leaf to a much much longer life for your headset.
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• #45
i should say, i didn't replace the headset. i paid a shop to do that.
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• #46
I'm currently building up a Holdsworth and was planning on reusing the headset. As far as I can tell it isn't branded but I do like the look of it and would like to keep it if possible. Unfortunately, after a clean I've discovered pitting/divets left from the bearings.
I'm assuming these are the culprits of the issues you guys are discussing in this thread? Perhaps I'm better off just buying a new headset and fitting it from the start?
1 Attachment
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• #47
looks like it the best way to test is to run a ball point pen along the surface, if you feel the pitting with that then you will feel the pitting when rebuilt.
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• #48
and it's not as if new similar headset are that expensive http://velosolo.co.uk/shopmisc.html
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• #49
looks like it the best way to test is to run a ball point pen along the surface, if you feel the pitting with that then you will feel the pitting when rebuilt.
Good thinking! I think it's toast. I'll hang on to it though (put it in the plastic bag along with the Baylis Wiley I pulled out of the frame...). Thanks!
and it's not as if new similar headset are that expensive http://velosolo.co.uk/shopmisc.html
I actually picked up the Tange from BLB tonight, came to your same conclusion that at under £20 there's no point trying to salvage that old one.
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• #50
glad you got it sorted.
cash flow trouble now costing me new headset...
failure of some sort yes indeed