Anyone using an On-One Inbred with a Goldtec?

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  • The current slot dropout version, that is. On-One specify a 50mm chainline, which is rather difficult with fixed (easy enough for SS). Goldtecs are about 46.5mm. Did you have to crimp the RH chainstay? What size ring are you using?

  • what on earth do you mean "crimp the chainstay"? whatever you are suggesting, don't do it. get a diff length bb, chainring spacers, or cog spacers.

  • the chainline measurement isn't just the hub, it's also the BB width, most 135mm dropout ss bikes have a 50mm chainline, you'll just need a wider BB to make it work with the goldtech

  • Buy a single speed disk hub such as the on-one, one (grammar!) then use a velo solo bolt on cog. I've done this and it gives me the same chain line fixed and free on a mtb that would not take a lesser chianline. (chain line is 50 mm for ref)

  • the chainline measurement isn't just the hub, it's also the BB width, most 135mm dropout ss bikes have a 50mm chainline, you'll just need a wider BB to make it work with the goldtech

    if the frame has 50mm chainline i assume this is with shortest bb length possible? otherwise he would need a shorter bb to get the 46.5mm chainline. or space out cog a few mm with spacers (not sure the max you could use?) or run the chainring on inside of crank spider.

    Buy a single speed disk hub such as the on-one, one (grammar!) then use a velo solo bolt on cog. I've done this and it gives me the same chain line fixed and free on a mtb that would not take a lesser chianline. (chain line is 50 mm for ref)

    it sound like he has a goldtec hub so seems a shame to waste it?

  • what on earth do you mean "crimp the chainstay"? whatever you are suggesting, don't do it. get a diff length bb, chainring spacers, or cog spacers.

    You can't space a fixed cog on a proper fixed hub; there isn't enough thread left for the sprocket to properly engage (so the threads will strip) and/or the lockring won't go on.

    Crimping the chainstay (basically squeezing a long dent into it) is common practice - most MTB frames are already crimped on the inside for tyre clearance or the outside for chainring clearance. If it is more than a tiny dent I'd get Argos Cycles to do it.

    There are, apparently, no 36h black fixed hubs in existence with a wider chainline than the Goldtec. I may have to go the bolt-on route, which would be a shame as I like Goldtecs (I've been using one on the track bike for years).

    I know people are running Inbreds with Goldtecs, but the older Inbred had slightly more chainring clearance.

  • You can't space a fixed cog on a proper fixed hub; there isn't enough thread left for the sprocket to properly engage (so the threads will strip) and/or the lockring won't go on.

    You can space a fixed sprocket on a fixed hub, just no more than say 2mm. Depends on the hub, cog and lockring combo, I suppose. I have 1mm each side with absolutely no issues.

    Crimping the chainstay (basically squeezing a long dent into it) is common practice - most MTB frames are already crimped on the inside for tyre clearance or the outside for chainring clearance. If it is more than a tiny dent I'd get Argos Cycles to do it..

    This sounds like a very tricky solution to pull off. But I agree it'll work fine. You may need to watch out for crank arm clearance, but I should'nt think so on a MTN frame.

    There are, apparently, no 36h black fixed hubs in existence with a wider chainline than the Goldtec. I may have to go the bolt-on route, which would be a shame as I like Goldtecs (I've been using one on the track bike for years).

    It could be worth picking up some fixed spacers, and a cheap BB or two and see what works. A 1mm spacer + wideish cog + 48mm chainline BB + small chainring - may work without the need to employ the hammer too much (probs not at all)*.

    (*pure speculation)

    spacers:
    http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shoptrack.html
    List of sprocket widths:
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html

  • So, you could either beat your bike with a hammer, or get a longer BB...

    am I missing something?

  • this is a goldtec with the 135mm axle? in 135mm dropouts on the inbred?

    yes?

    then refer back to my first post. I can't tell you exactly what BB you need because I don't know what crank you are using.

  • So, you could either beat your bike with a hammer, or get a longer BB...

    am I missing something?

    Yes the sprocket sits 46.5mm from the center of the hub. No BB is going to correct this. Hitting the frame with a hammer will allow a shorter BB to be used (and show it whos boss :S).

  • ah i see what you mean now with the crimping. i would rather leave a frame alone.

    using 2mm spacers =48.5mm chainline, that and 3/32" cogs and 1/8" chain should be fine, no?

    spacers, and bolt on hub info available from velosolo

  • using 2mm spacers =48.5mm chainline, that and 3/32" cogs and 1/8" chain should be fine, no?

    +1
    I reckon 2mm of spacers plus a 4mm added to the BB length (as opposed to for 46.5mm chainline) should be fine. It would mean that the crankset was 1.5mm closer to the chainstay, but this should be doable.

    I just got the impression the OP was unhappy about the idea of using hub spacers. It depends on the hub/sprocket/lockring combo but 2mm should be OK.

  • I think maybe changing hubs is the nicer option rather than hurting a poor innocent frame :(

  • yeah theres nothing better for a bike that to have it's stays crimped / bent / attacked

    so much more fun that just changing the bottom bracket

    why be sensible when you have the opportunity to use everybike mechanics favourite tool


    ask in any lbs they'll recommend the heavy hammer route

  • unanswerable question:-
    why do people buy on-ones's and then ride them geared?

  • unanswerable question:-
    why do people buy on-ones's and then ride them geared?

    Why not? They do some nice geared frames.

    Another question would be; why are thousands of people buying geared road bikes and running them with one gear?

  • I think maybe changing hubs is the nicer option rather than hurting a poor innocent frame :(

    The hubs are worth more than the frame I'd imagine ;)

    Seriously though.

    • Buy some spacers + sprocket + lockring (the Surly one is good for reduced lockring thread)
    • See how much chainline adjustment your happy with (with enough lockring engagement).
    • If you've managed to push the chainline out to say 48mm or more, then its time to decide if you have the chainring/chainstay clearance you need.
    • If you think it'll work get the appropriate BB for your new chainline, ride, and enjoy.

    Theres nothing to loose except maybe a wasted BB purchase if the final chainstay clearance is'nt enough.

  • unanswerable question:-
    why do people buy on-ones's and then ride them geared?

    because it's a cheap good versatile frame. I plan on buying an inbread and having a gear and single speed setup.

  • My original thoughts for the winter bike were:

    Inbred + Alfine hub + On-One rigid fork.

    Would make a fantastic extreme weather commuter (do they still have rack mounts?). Try comparing the cost of that build, with your typical hub geared trekking bike. Its like a third of the cost.

    The only reason I did'nt do it was because I had more parts to go the cycloX route.

  • o.k, clearly my earlier question wasnt unanswerable,
    maybe Im just too pedantic.

  • Probably no help, but I have an ooooooooooold Inbred with a 135OLN Goldtec hub. I can just get away with a 42t ring (haven't tried bigger, but it looks iffy). I use a Campag Veloce triple (113mm spindle?), with the single ring in the middle position, but on the inside of the spider.

    Haven't got a clue if the chainline's right, but it looks okay and runs smooth & quiet.

    So to reiterate, no help at all.

  • Probably no help, but I have an ooooooooooold Inbred with a 135OLN Goldtec hub. I can just get away with a 42t ring (haven't tried bigger, but it looks iffy). I use a Campag Veloce triple (113mm spindle?), with the single ring in the middle position, but on the inside of the spider.

    Haven't got a clue if the chainline's right, but it looks okay and runs smooth & quiet.

    So to reiterate, no help at all.

    No, that is helpful because it's more or less what I'm trying to do. I don't know what the recommended chainline for the old Inbred was, though. Hopefully there's only a couple of mm in it and the crimp will be so tiny it won't even break the paint.

    There's a good series of photos here showing the DIY approach:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/singlespeedoutlaw/3650527818/

  • What gearing are you running (or trying to run) that is causing the problem?
    Surely if this is an off road build you could team a 13t cog with something small up front to allow for chainring/chainstay clearance on a 46.5mm chainline?
    Not seen it with road/mtb frames so much but iv seen a fair few bmx frames with crimped stays go pearshaped. And that was factory crimped not diy bashing crimped.

  • What gearing are you running (or trying to run) that is causing the problem?
    Surely if this is an off road build you could team a 13t cog with something small up front to allow for chainring/chainstay clearance on a 46.5mm chainline?
    Not seen it with road/mtb frames so much but iv seen a fair few bmx frames with crimped stays go pearshaped. And that was factory crimped not diy bashing crimped.

    I want to run 41 x 15, and it's for road use. 36 x 13 is about the same, but cogs so small feel horrid, accentuate any out-of-roundness and aren't as efficient.

    It fits OK on my Cannondale M1000 frame, but that has vertical dropouts and the ENO hub never worked properly for me - it kept creeping every time I rode up a steep hill. Hence the frame swap.

  • I want to run 41 x 15, and it's for road use. 36 x 13 is about the same, but cogs so small feel horrid, accentuate any out-of-roundness and aren't as efficient.

    It fits OK on my Cannondale M1000 frame, but that has vertical dropouts and the ENO hub never worked properly for me - it kept creeping every time I rode up a steep hill. Hence the frame swap.

    Track frames with huge chainrings look cool.
    MTN frames with uber small chainrings look cool.

    This is the way of things.

    Hope that helps ;)

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Anyone using an On-One Inbred with a Goldtec?

Posted by Avatar for rogerzilla @rogerzilla

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