Rear axle spacing for an '80s frame will be 126 mm, which will take wheels of the period up to 7 speed block, not the more recent 8 speed through to 11 speed cassettes, which fit on 130mm wheels. If you want to build a fixed bike, you would be better off looking for a frame with 120mm rear spacing and either horizontal dropouts or track ends.
If you want to fit mudguards and/or a rack, it's best to get a frame with the appropriate brazings to attach them properly.
The fork header will probably be 1 inch threaded, which pushes you down the route of fitting a quill stem and bars to suit, unless you fit a converter for a more modern stem. Quill stems are perfectly good though.
The bottom bracket should hopefully be standard English threading, same as used now, so no worries there (Raleigh used to use a peculiar threading all their own, apparently, but I think by the '80s they'd seen the light and fallen in line with everyone else in the civilised world).
Brazings (if present) for [brake] ignore 'brake' I meant 'gear' levers will be standard fit.
Frame angles and dimensions from the '80s won't be anything outlandish but of course you must make sure they suit YOU. I have a friend who has the only 531 frame I've ever known to rust badly - it was a Raleigh - make sure any Raleigh you look at seems to be in good condition.
Are you planning to build a fixed or a single speed or a geared bike?
Whether you want modern or period parts depends on your preference. I have just rebuilt a frame of mine but modernised it so that it still looks slightly 'retro' but has the benefits of more recent equipment. Some people are passionate about building a bike that is faithful to a particular era. Any approach is valid if it works for you.
Does that help? Or, given your forum name, am I on Candid Camera?
Rear axle spacing for an '80s frame will be 126 mm, which will take wheels of the period up to 7 speed block, not the more recent 8 speed through to 11 speed cassettes, which fit on 130mm wheels. If you want to build a fixed bike, you would be better off looking for a frame with 120mm rear spacing and either horizontal dropouts or track ends.
If you want to fit mudguards and/or a rack, it's best to get a frame with the appropriate brazings to attach them properly.
The fork header will probably be 1 inch threaded, which pushes you down the route of fitting a quill stem and bars to suit, unless you fit a converter for a more modern stem. Quill stems are perfectly good though.
The bottom bracket should hopefully be standard English threading, same as used now, so no worries there (Raleigh used to use a peculiar threading all their own, apparently, but I think by the '80s they'd seen the light and fallen in line with everyone else in the civilised world).
Brazings (if present) for [brake] ignore 'brake' I meant 'gear' levers will be standard fit.
Frame angles and dimensions from the '80s won't be anything outlandish but of course you must make sure they suit YOU. I have a friend who has the only 531 frame I've ever known to rust badly - it was a Raleigh - make sure any Raleigh you look at seems to be in good condition.
Are you planning to build a fixed or a single speed or a geared bike?
Whether you want modern or period parts depends on your preference. I have just rebuilt a frame of mine but modernised it so that it still looks slightly 'retro' but has the benefits of more recent equipment. Some people are passionate about building a bike that is faithful to a particular era. Any approach is valid if it works for you.
Does that help? Or, given your forum name, am I on Candid Camera?