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• #252
Me too. Another way of putting it: with the bike upside down (or on a workstand if you're flush or pro), use one hand, placed on the bb and pushing against the tyre, to roughly tension the chain, but with the wheel slightly skew so that the tyre is a little closer to the non-drive side chainstay. Nip up the non-drive side nut to lock it's position, but don't fully tighten it. Now gently push sideways on the tyre to realign the wheel between the chainstays, also generating chain tension, and nip up the drive side nut. If all is well, tighten them both.
This takes a little practice and in fact as UH OH said it is easy to get too much tension, but once you've got it the method is simple and reliable.
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• #253
Hello i really need some advice.
I have just brought a fuji track, which came with a 15t 3/32 fixed cog, i replaced it today with a 19t 1/8, and because the cog is bigger - the chain is very tight, with no room on the dropouts - will this damage the crank/bike? or is this ok.
Thanks
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• #254
Add some chain links, or buy a new (longer) chain.
Be careful that the pitch of your old chain will go around that thicker cog.
Oh and UTFS.
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• #255
Yes it will damage your kit, including the chain. Don't ride it like that!
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• #256
ok thanks - yeah i should of searched. sorry.
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• #257
Should have.
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• #258
Shouldda
Whilst this thread is live can someone please explian to me how a tight chain increases wear over a less tight chain?
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• #259
If road grit gets onto your chain and it's tight already the grit will grind down the moving parts more heavily than if the chain has a little play in it.
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• #260
Shouldda
Whilst this thread is live can someone please explian to me how a tight chain increases wear over a less tight chain?
Rub your hands together lightly.
Rub your hands together with them squeezed tighter together.
Which one will wear your skin down faster?
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• #261
Now place your cock in between your hands and repeat.
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• #262
Foreskinless, FTW.
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• #263
If road grit gets onto your chain and it's tight already the grit will grind down the moving parts more heavily than if the chain has a little play in it.
depends on the metals used. typically the chain materials used will be softer than those of the chain rings, etc, so it'll only damage the chain.
i don't see the problem here. as long as the dude can get it on.
new chain will stretch pronto and he can then let the back wheel out a bit.
unless i missed something?
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• #264
the real niche are the circumcised non-jews
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• #265
Get in.
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• #266
unless i missed something?
Alu chainring versus steel chain = premature chainring replacement.
Even steel chainrings will wear quicker. It's also less efficient and makes you SLOWER.
Don't over-tighten your chains kiddies.
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• #267
Place more stress on bearings too.
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• #268
the real niche are the circumcised non-jews
Raises hand, thanks to being issued an ill-fitting one by the same cruel gods who gave me twisty balls :(
I must've been even more of a cunt in a past life.
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• #269
twisty balls? care to explain
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• #270
Alu chainring versus steel chain = premature chainring replacement.
Even steel chainrings will wear quicker. It's also less efficient and makes you SLOWER.
Don't over-tighten your chains kiddies.
ahhh...learn you will, daniel-son
really though how many chain rings are alu? thought most would have been more badass alloy than lightweight foil. seems like a daft place to have a soft metal.
assumed that tight-as-poss chain (whilst not putting silly pressure on the bearings) would have meant for better transmission vs slower? especially when applying reverse pressure?
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• #271
twisty balls? care to explain
Testicular torsion. Google it.
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• #272
pics?
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• #273
Er, okay. Not me, BTW.
Either cliveo or myself would be happy to chat to anyone who suspects they may have this condition. Don't keep it to yourselves...
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• #274
Is that top picture really necessary? :(
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• #275
"Damn! You got long-ass balls, Larry!" (Any Curb Your Enthusiasm fans on here?)
I do this too