Stop crank bolts loosening

I tightened the drive side up using my wratchet and socket with alan key thing (sorry non technical terms).

This gave me much more leverage than my normal alan key, unfortunately my chainring ended up against the frame (the chainstays).

current plan of action is to try the chainring on the outside of the cranks as opposed to the inside but i'm not sure if the extra tightening will give me a straight chainline.

If not i suppose i will need a new BB with a different spindle length?

Sounds like its FUCKED. When the chain ing is fouling the chin stays you've generally had it. The only chance that you might have had would have been if you had an adjustable threads on your BB but it doesn't sound like it.

http://www.google.co.uk/products?rlz=1C1GGLS_enGB329GB329&sourceid=chrome&q=torque+wrench&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=33exSrqfKtGj4gam052tCg&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=image&resnum=1

ftw

^^All/mainly gash. You should spend decent money as the cheaper options will be inaccurate. A good one will have precision certificates in the packaging. As I've mentioned before I've got a really good roebuck with a torque meter on it if anyone needs one.

An update

I removed my cranks and noticed a kind of salt build up on the taper of the cranks, not sure if water had got in or if it is an aluminium oxide from pressure contact with the Ti BB spindle.

Have scraped out (gently trying not to scratch the crank taper) the white residue.

Am thinking due to the metals copper slip really ought to be used on the splines, however I have bloody lost my pot of it.

Tightened the fuck out of it as I did the cranks back up. Cranks are much much quieter now and the crank bolt stayed tight on my way to work.

Will probably try to borrow a torque wrench, buy some more copper slip and redo the whole job in a few weeks time.

This is the issue with Ti BB spindles that black stuff is Al oxide that make that fucking annoying creaking. As long as you use paper between 800-1200 you'll be fine. Just be careful if you are using something with a flat edge to remove the crap. Also when you've done this get an old rag soaked with methylated spirit and force the rag through the taper on the crank as well as the spindle you're good to go.

finally went for this torque wrench

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/norbar-11037-torque-wrench-1/4-ratchet-adjustable-1-20-n.m/10-180-lbf.in-model-sl0-steel-knob-p5334

it will do all the bolts including the 16 Nm for the sugino crank bolts

did loads of reading up, the norbar are also branded as wurth or syntace and seem to be well respected

if buying one be careful they do steel and plastic capped ones, the capped does 4-20 Nm the stell does 1-20 Nm

will now have to find the torque specs for each bolt on my bike

will see what difference copper slip and the correct tension on the crank bolts will do.

happy geek days

looks good.