Smaller cog now chains loud?

Hi all

i have recently changed my rear cog from a no make 16t to a dura ace 15t and now my chains overly loud? i have sorted out my chain line to near perfect by using washers behind my chain ring and have tried diffrent lubes but the noise is still there! are dura ace cogs known for being loud? i really dont know...

cheers

my da rear cog does make a racket
some track chains also make quite a noise combination of the two might be difficult to quieten down even with gallons of 3in1

Assuming you are using the same chain - Is it worn at all?
Measure the distance between 12 links and if it's stretched more than 1/16-1/8 inch I reckon its time to invest.

...also, as dicki writes, some combinations are just noisy.

New chain time?

Damn Prav got there first.

yeah im using the same chain and it was quiet as a mouse before with the old cog, the chain is a cheap one though i think ill try i new chain...

also i checked my chain line by using the edge of a meter long rule and theres literally nothing in it!

Hi all

i have recently changed my rear cog from a no make 16t to a dura ace 15t and now my chains overly loud? i have sorted out my chain line to near perfect by using washers behind my chain ring and have tried diffrent lubes but the noise is still there! are dura ace cogs known for being loud? i really dont know...

cheers

Assuming track ends or rear facing dropouts then have you checked the alignment of the rear wheel? Look at your rear cog and chainring directly from above ... are the teeth fully centered between the chain links? If your rear wheel is aligned even slightly off, it can cause your cog / chainring teeth to pull diagonally against the chain, resulting in noise at the point where the teeth come into contact with the edges of the chain.

Going to get flamed to fuckery here, but I actually find that TWO tugnuts are great for micro-adjustments to wheel alignment.

These things happen and have been discussed before. Either get a new chain for use with the new cog or let the chain and cog wear their edges off til they quiet down.

2 tugs might be nice for fine adjustments but slow and unnecessary. I do like the symmetry though.

Assuming track ends or rear facing dropouts then have you checked the alignment of the rear wheel? Look at your rear cog and chainring directly from above ... are the teeth fully centered between the chain links? If your rear wheel is aligned even slightly off, it can cause your cog / chainring teeth to pull diagonally against the chain, resulting in noise at the point where the teeth come into contact with the edges of the chain.

Going to get flamed to fuckery here, but I actually find that TWO tugnuts are great for micro-adjustments to wheel alignment.

i have some of those chain tugs for forward facing d/o and they definately help having one each side for just this problem

the DA sprockets are wider a fraction than most so i'd check the alignment of the wheel.

Alot of the time chains are machined differently to the teeth on certain cogs hence why alot of people complain that chains like Izumi Super Toughness are loud. Assuming they are merely using them with an inferior cog.

For example an Izumi chain used with an EAI cog does not make a loud drivetrain (provided chainline is ok and chain is maintained properly) but if you used the same top of the range Izumi chain with for example a BLB or a Condor cog you would get considerably more noise.

Same goes for if you use a cheap chain with a Phil Wood cog for example, they have not both been machined to the same track standard so will take a while to bed into each other.

I think what I just said could have been *massively simplified...*. but what the heck I'm having a boring day.

yeah bollocks max.

Oi!

ok cheers for all the suggestions, ill keep the chain on that i have now for a few more rides and see if it starts to bed in, if not ill buy a new chain. thanks guys

Out of interest, what chain is it?

its a Sram TN10 here: http://www.evanscycles.com/products/sram/tm10-chain-1-8-ec005215?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=froogle#show=0

How old is it?

i found the srams the quietest chain on any of my bikes

its a Sram TN10 here: http://www.evanscycles.com/products/sram/tm10-chain-1-8-ec005215?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=froogle#show=0

Bin and replace, those chains are flipping awful, mine lasted for a week before literally disinegrating, I SHIT YOU NOT!
I had like 4 links almost crumble apart beneath my feet, awful things, stick with KMC or Izumi, they know how to make good chains, SRAM do not!
My cheap ass 510 lasted longer....

I must admit, it doesn't look like the ideal chain. Especially for riding fixed.

I wouldn't dream of using something that looks so flimsy, but that's just me.

Oh and I'm brakless and paranoid.

2 tugs might be nice for fine adjustments but slow and unnecessary. I do like the symmetry though.

What are you going to do about your bollocks?

its a Sram TN10 here: http://www.evanscycles.com/products/sram/tm10-chain-1-8-ec005215?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=froogle#show=0

Rat-chain™

I love how it looks rusty when it's brand new.

Actually wait, I don't love that.

i have trusted sram as i have been using there mtb stuff for yearrrrrssssss with no probs but its looks like ill be on the new chain hunt then

I've never had any issues with SRAM chains. This one does look particularly cheap though.