Cup and Cone issues

I've got a Fuji Track 08 and had it for nearly a year. The issue I'm having is that no matter how perfectly I adjust the cones on the rear hub as soon as I put the rear wheel back on the bike, tight and with good chain tension, there is side to side movement in the wheel.

I've repacked the bearings several times, everything looks OK but still every time I do this, there is still movement. The weird thing is that once I ride it like this for a few days and get so pissed off that I have to try and adjust it again, when I take the wheel off, the axle has becomes so tight that the wheel won't even roll round it.

What the hell is going on???

Is it worth replacing the cones/bearings or is it about time I cough up for a new wheel.

I haven't, no. I've only ever adjusted the cones with the wheel off the bike, but surely with nuts tight and the wheel secure, it would be near impossible to tighten the cones further due to the clamping effect of the frame on the lock nuts and cones??

Can't hurt in trying though.

tightening the tracknuts against the frame drop-out is causing one of the cone, axle or locknut to rotate.

That’s what I thought originally so yet again took the wheel off last night, re adjusted the cones and put the wheel back on, this time doing it slowly, doing each side the same amount alternately. I got the wheel tightened with no extra movement, and yet again, lo and behold rattly back wheel!!

As an alternative solution, would excessive wear to the bearings or surface of the cone cause similar problems?

are you definatly sure its your back wheel rattling? and how tight are you doing up the locking nuts?

when i've got the cones to where i want them i've tighted the lock nuts up behind them as tight as i can with the spanner. We're not talking excessively tight but there is no way they would move anywhere without the use of a spanner.

oh and it's definietly the wheel. when moving the wheel from left to right across the axle you just see the slightest bit of movement. I've checked everything else i can think of.

The issue I'm having is that no matter how perfectly I adjust the cones on the rear hub as soon as I put the rear wheel back on the bike, tight and with good chain tension, there is side to side movement in the wheel.

not doing it perfectly then eh? ;-P

i don't think there is anything faulty with your equipment, just the method. cup and cone bearings can be a bitch to get right.

are you using proper cone spanners?

maybe read sheldon and park and try doing the cones up a little tighter?

humm well in that case i do not have a clue!

but from reading your posts on this thread again its sounds alot like when your tightning the tracknuts the axel is slipping causing the cones to loosen... check the thread in the track nuts and the axel. could be the tracknut griping the axel where theres a burr or lots of dirt in the thread, thats the only thing i can think of tbh

cup and cone bearings can be a bitch to get right.

+1 cant stand the things!

I had exactly the same problem and it is just a matter of trial and error til you get it right. It is tempting not to tighten too tight but then as you say, the wheel wobbles from side to side which is no good. However, if it is too tight you realise that the wheel doesn't turn which is v wrong.

how i found it best was to grease the whole thing up, install new bearings and clean the cups to start with. At least then you know that is not the problem.

then just put on the cones and locknuts but just so that the cones are snug but not tight and that when you attach the locknut make sure you aint tightening the cone.

finally when you install the wheel on the frame and are tightening the tracknuts, keep a spanner on the cone or locknut to stop that from tightening....it's fiddly but doable. Right at the end, if you are able to slightly loosen the locknut and cone by the barest of turns as this will cause the wheel to be even tighter to the frame and will mean that if the cones have been tightened too far they will loosen.

fingers crossed your wheel will be on, your chain tight, there will be no wobble and it won't be too tight. If the wheel doesn't wobble the ulimate test is just spinning the cranks and seeing if there is any resistance. if it just goes and goes it is good, if it slows down obviously due to some friction....take the wheel off and, start again.

I had this problem 4 months ago and havent touched my wheel since cos i got it right, my chain has gone slack and I keep putting off tightening it cos I know it is such a bitch to get right :-(

i have been using proper cone spanners, but my perfect technique is clearly not as perfect as first thought!! cheers for the tips.

i'll give it another go, this time with a little more patience. I guess my evening is once again going to be a greasy one!!

it could be that you do the cones up but don't realise its a little loose as the axle will not wiggle as much as the wheel at the rim. if you get me?

yeah i see what you mean. i'm going to give it a proper go this evening, see what happens.