Difference possible in sprocket sizes on flip flop

I'm going to be running a 48t chainring with a 17t freewheel on a flip flop hub and wondered if anyone knows how much difference you can get away with in size for the sprocket on the other side of the hub.

I know it depends partly on the length of the dropouts and the amount of adjustment you can make to get good chain tension, but is the idea of running 17t one side and 19t the other realistic. Lookinng at the gear inches these give there seems to be a substantial difference. Maybe too much to expect to be able to account for by moving the wheel in the dropouts.

Anybody running a 17t and 19t on a flip flop hub or have any experience of it working / not working.

I'm going to measure the length of the dropouts to get a better idea. From memory they're fairly regular old racer frame droputs, possibly 1.5 to 2 inches in length.

Thanks in advance for any help, advice, suggestions.

I run 48x19 as my street gear (jammed right into the dropout) and can switch to 48x15 (just about) on the same chain...

I think each tooth difference translates roughly in to 1/8th inch on the drop out. A difference of 4 teeth is pretty standard but I think some people have got up to 6 teeth.

a prompt on thread answer = OP must have been male.

And a fuji track with 28c tyres can only manage 2 teeth difference.

It depends a lot on your frame really, but you should be fine on most for a 17t/19t set-up.

Lightening fast response. Thanks all. I know it's going to take a bit of playing about to get it set up. At least I know I shouldn't be wasting money now getting decent sprockets straight away rather than trying it out with cheapos.

Looking at dropouts they're 40mm long, but proably with more realistic movement of 35mm back and forward keeping in mind the slight angle of them.

Good to know I can probably use 17t (I've worked out I'm most comfortable with that for commuting) and not have to go for 18t fixed with limited skid patches and more wear. 19t would be ideal.

Thanks again.

Each link is 1 inch and 2 teeth. So adding 2 teeth makes the rear sprocket 1 inch bigger in diameter, the chain wraps around roughly half the sprocket, so an extra 1/2 inch of chain will be used, since the chain is split 50:50 top to bottom (ish), you'll need to move the wheel in by 1/4 inch to get that spare 1/2 inch (1/4 from top, 1/4 from bottom).

So, what Moog said: 1/8 inch per extra cog. A 1 1/2 inch long track end will give you about 1 inch of freedom (not all of which might be usable as you are stuck with multiples of 1/2 inches (or 1/4 with a half link).

With two teeth you shouldn't have a problem.

Just get a derailleur. That's how they evolved...

Just get a derailleur. That's how they evolved...

Too easy! No fun at all.

What you need is twin front chain rings, twin sprockets, two chains and some sort of sliding clutch mechanism in the hub to only one sprocket in engaged at a time. Much better.

Too easy! No fun at all.

What you need is twin front chain rings, twin sprockets, two chains and some sort of sliding clutch mechanism in the hub to only one sprocket in engaged at a time. Much better.

Sorry, lazy thinking on my part...

Just get a derailleur. That's how they evolved...

Or rollerskates