Which Chain? (Chains / Size / Width / Wear)

The only chain I've broken is a cheapo TAYA chain bought from Halfords, which had a crappy sigma connector:
http://www.tayachain.com/style/content/CN-01/faq.asp?lang=2&customer_id=615&name_id=17782&fid=374

It was the sigma connector that split. Chain was luckiliy still held together by the rivet pins, so no injury. I replaced the sigma connector with a standard rivet plate connector. I dont bother with carrying a chain tool and chain links, but do carry a spare chain connector.

Last week the single chainring/crank on my hack started slipping going uphill. The chainring was clamped to the crank arm and couldnt take the toll of fixed gear no more. Now replaced with a dotek spider crankset.

I bought one for a mate, we spent "some time" figuring that one out!

Haha, that taya one is the same one I've been running on my BMX for about a year no probs, appart from those connectors are a bit weak. My chains just been falling off (cos its slack), wrapping round the back cog and snapping, pretty nasty but I've switched from using a 15mm spanner to a big 1/2" ratchet which seems to be holding everything in place better.I guess I've just been under torquing them because my track nuts just look a bit unsubstantial compared to my BMX's nuts. Anyway I've been doing a lot of miles lately too, so having chain tugs (fuckin sweet ones btw) should lessen the maintenance i have to carry out.

^^ Your wheel should still never ever slip though. I mean on a BMX or something, if you did a massive street drop your back wheel could move a tiny bit. But riding around on a 700c bike? No way. This could only happen if you have spacing issues. Also make sure you have washers under your wheelnuts - you can do them up tighter and they grip better.

I have personally been using a £3 Asda (kmc) chain for a whole year. I really feel I ought to change it now, it has stretched a lot and has borrowed half links in it. Chain snap really isnt much of an issue on any single speed bike. Chains are mostly fucked up by derailieurs forcing chain over sprockets under load zillions of times.

Not had a chain break on me yet in many years of cycling. I did have my back axle snap two days ago though. Luckily I could roll some of the distance home as it was a quick release wheel and the skewer meant it still held in place. Knackered the skewer too though but at least I got home without a long walk. If it had been a solid axle I'd have been pushing it home and would have probably lost all the bearings etc.

You can't carry everything with you for every possible repair but if you can get a multi tool with a chain breaker in it then it can't hurt to carry a couple of links. Especially if yo uhave them left over from fitting the chain when you first put it on.

What make / model tool is the one pictured?

topeak hexus
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Topeak_Hexus~Hummer_16_Function_Multitool/5300003189/

Not had a chain break on me yet in many years of cycling. I did have my back axle snap two days ago though. Luckily I could roll some of the distance home as it was a quick release wheel and the skewer meant it still held in place. Knackered the skewer too though but at least I got home without a long walk. If it had been a solid axle I'd have been pushing it home and would have probably lost all the bearings etc.

You can't carry everything with you for every possible repair but if you can get a multi tool with a chain breaker in it then it can't hurt to carry a couple of links. Especially if yo uhave them left over from fitting the chain when you first put it on.

What make / model tool is the one pictured?

Rear axle snapping usually only occurs on cheap hubs because the bearings are placed just on either side of the hubshell leaving a massive overhang of unsupported axle inside the freewheel/cassette.

Shimano hubs have bearings right at the edge of the freehub so it is supported at its two ends of the axle making snapping very very unlikely. Just a tip for the future.

Rear axle snapping usually only occurs on cheap hubs because the bearings are placed just on either side of the hubshell leaving a massive overhang of unsupported axle inside the freewheel/cassette.

Shimano hubs have bearings right at the edge of the freehub so it is supported at its two ends of the axle making snapping very very unlikely. Just a tip for the future.

Thanks for info. I learned this yesterday too when swapping out the axle. This was definatley the cause. The break was in the exact middle of the unsuported area. All the more reason to not have a cassette / gears . Its also been supporting the extra weight of a toddler in child seat for the last couple of years, so I'm sure that's added to the wear.

If I remember correctly, you ride a geared bike around London, isn't it? In that case you don't need spare links; just take the broken link out and the derailleur will compensate. Obviously, you only wanna do that once or twice...

True, I never even thought about doing that. I do ride a geared cycle yeah.
I think I'll get my hands on some spare links though. I don't really like cycling with any lower gear, it's horrible. You have to pedal too fast to get anywhere :P

It makes me want to convert to a fixed gear since I never use any other gear, unless it's some extremely steep hill...

How would I go about doing this, and is it possible? Would it be better?

topeak hexus
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Topeak_Hexus~Hummer_16_Function_Multitool/5300003189/

Yep, that's the one.
I've lost one of the levers, thankfully it wasn't the one with the allen key on it.

Hmm, there seems to be a bit of mixed views on the subject. I'm gonna get my hands on some links, just incase. You never know when your chain will snap.

Thanks for your input peeps.

Re slipping:

Hubs that don't use track nuts, but have allen bolts and washers are sometimes prone to slippage (like goldtec and phil wood) especially on smooth or chromed track ends. They simply don't grip as well as proper track axles and nuts. Your own experience/s may or may not echo this statement. This is fact and not open to further discussion.

Discuss...

I have presumably let my chain wear too much - I've had two side pates go on my PC971 in the last few weeks, luckily I recognised the clunk and did a roadside repair before coming to grief. Time to go to shop and buy chain.

Re slipping:

Hubs that don't use track nuts, but have allen bolts and washers are sometimes prone to slippage (like goldtec and phil wood) especially on smooth or chromed track ends. They simply don't grip as well as proper track axles and nuts. Your own experience/s may or may not echo this statement. This is fact and not open to further discussion.

I'm not discussing with you, I'm merely showing you this.

are they the bolts through your neck that hold your head on?

Shh, you said we're not discussing, here's another picture.

if you are paranoid about chain breakages you could get a bmx half link as i beleive they are the strongest?

I improved some goldtecs by drilling out and using some caps like that from a DMR mtb hub, it's all still hipster bollocks though

Carrying a spare bike is an option for those concerned about parts failures. Alternatively, carry an Oyster Card or enough money for a cab or a bank card providing sufficient funds to grab a cab. Black cabs will take bikes.

Racist.

Will they take them from one end of NOS to the other?

I'm not sure I'm up to doing the whole distance or even, any of it.

Carrying a spare bike is an option for those concerned about parts failures. Alternatively, carry an Oyster Card or enough money for a cab or a bank card providing sufficient funds to grab a cab. Black cabs will take bikes.

Fiddy style

hippy. You know you can. Dig deep.

I'm scared at the level of training committment this adventure requires..

I'm not even posting on the right thread any more.. that's how high I am..