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• #2
Wood and hammer has worked fine for me. Just go round evenly and carefully and make sure it doesn't go lopsided
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• #3
Thats a great looking frame too
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• #4
get the bloody wheels too.
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• #5
Wood and hammer has worked fine for me. Just go round evenly and carefully and make sure it doesn't go lopsided
+1 - if you're careful and everything is standard you should have no probs.
For most of these things it best IMO to try it yourself first...
...if you try and can't do it/gets to a point where you think something might brake, STOP, have a think, then take it to a shop.
Also - sweet frame, and looks like a decent price - well done
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• #6
Ha! those wheels are way way way out of my price range, the BIN was £160!!! then some idiot bid on them...
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• #7
+1 - if you're careful and everything is standard you should have no probs.
For most of these things it best IMO to try it yourself first...
...if you try and can't do it/gets to a point where you think something might brake, STOP, have a think, then take it to a shop.
Also - sweet frame, and looks like a decent price - well done
Ha! those wheels are way way way out of my price range, the BIN was £160!!! then some idiot bid on them...
Nice one thanks! So no preference on a cheap Tange or campag, also I was wondering if the Campag had some crazy itailan thing going on which meant it wouldn't work with english thread or am I getting my headest and BB mixed up...
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• #8
Is it the fork diameter that should be an 1" or the head tube?
Lee Cooper Frame mm Inches
HEAD OUTER DIAMETER 1.3002"
HEAD INNER DIAMETER 1.2214"
FORK DIAMETER 0.985" -
• #9
I would go for the bike dealer, not the hammer and piece of wood.
If you buy the headset there, probably the assembly is for free or cheap.What set to buy: if the adjustment (initial adjustment and the weekly checking) is poor, it really doesn't matter. Then both Campag and Tange will be gone in a day. Especially if they 're not 100% assembled (faced head tube, fork crown, press in tool.
Correct adjustment is vital, also for the best Campag.
Better a bit loose (rattling, play) than just a bit too tight!!!If you want the best option: go for a Shimano Cartridge headset. The bearings can set themselves a bit in the holders. Some misalignment is acceptable.
In this case, you can even go for the hammer and wood method.
Take a cheap STX or 105. Same quality as XT or Dura Ace.
If the bearings are worn, you only have to buy and replace the cartridges. No more pressing and hammering needed.PS:
As alternative for hammer and wood, you better take a threaded rod M10 or so (or even bigger) and 2 nuts. And some big spacers of course. -
• #10
buy a headset clamp
then you're good for life for all the other builds you;ll attempt -
• #11
I would go for the bike dealer, not the hammer and piece of wood.
If you buy the headset there, probably the assembly is for free or cheap.What set to buy: if the adjustment (initial adjustment and the weekly checking) is poor, it really doesn't matter. Then both Campag and Tange will be gone in a day. Especially if they 're not 100% assembled (faced head tube, fork crown, press in tool.
Correct adjustment is vital, also for the best Campag.
Better a bit loose (rattling, play) than just a bit too tight!!!If you want the best option: go for a Shimano Cartridge headset. The bearings can set themselves a bit in the holders. Some misalignment is acceptable.
In this case, you can even go for the hammer and wood method.
Take a cheap STX or 105. Same quality as XT or Dura Ace.
If the bearings are worn, you only have to buy and replace the cartridges. No more pressing and hammering needed.PS:
As alternative for hammer and wood, you better take a threaded rod M10 or so (or even bigger) and 2 nuts. And some big spacers of course.OK, if I DIY and it goes tits up what's the worse that can happen, will the frame get fooked or just the headset?
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• #12
I used a bit of scaffolding i found in my back garden and a hammer. I did it for the experience too but your frame is more valuable than mine...I'm glad i did it and it works fine but i would probably go to the LBS in future.
Also make sure you put the (caged) bearings in the right way up, i didn't and couldnt get the set up right (i.e bar spins, no knocking.
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• #13
buy a headset clamp
then you're good for life for all the other builds you;ll attempthow much are they though?is it economical if not doing new builds all the time?
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• #14
I used a bit of scaffolding i found in my back garden and a hammer. I did it for the experience too.
What is it with back gardens having spare bits of scaffolding lying around?
Also make sure you put the (caged) bearings in the right way up, i didn't and couldnt get the set up right (i.e bar spins, no knocking.
I have no idea what this is, which is worrying and means I need to read more and probably should go to a shop.
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• #15
how much are they though?is it economical if not doing new builds all the time?
I hear a few hundred, or you just buy one of these and then never go to a shop again: http://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup.asp?igpk=2126177580&TID=367
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• #16
What is it with back gardens having spare bits of scaffolding lying around?
I have no idea what this is, which is worrying and means I need to read more and probably should go to a shop.
yeah not sure what it was doing there...
this is quite a decent read, ignore the bit about the orientation of the bearing retainers because it was wrong for my headset (tange levin).
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=127
i definately think there is value in DIY'ing, if i were you i would get the headset pressed at your LBS then do the rest yourself tools/energy/interest permitting.
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• #17
Don't buy a press,either hammer it in with a bit of wood but be carefull.I have built and re built alot of bikes like this.
Or go and buy some 1/2" thread bar,some large washers and two nuts.Homemade press for pennys
I am not a cheapskate,i have alot of park tools including stand but i use them alot unlike a headset press,always used the homemade now since i made it as its just the same but not blue and not designed to look good.
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• #18
I hear a few hundred, or you just buy one of these and then never go to a shop again: http://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup.asp?igpk=2126177580&TID=367
TBH there are shops out there that will charge close to that, so maybe a worthwhile investment...
... but from the looks of scsracing's above post and that pic in the link they're doing the same thing to me, so I'd choise the DIY one... but then I'm short of cash.
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• #19
TBH there are shops out there that will charge close to that, so maybe a worthwhile investment...
... but from the looks of scsracing's above post and that pic in the link they're doing the same thing to me, so I'd choise the DIY one... but then I'm short of cash.
That tool frm Parker looks just the job, then I can charge @tdub £20 to do his...And all will be good.
Thanks for all the guidance, I'll post a pic up of the damage. I've found a new problem but I'll start that up on another thread.
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• #21
The bottom ring of the headset doesn't look like it'll fit over the lip of my fork, should I just force it? see attached for some idea of what i'm on about
1 Attachment
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• #22
Gonna go to a shop after reading this decent guide: http://www.exchangecycletours.org/Headset%20Removal-Installation-Web.htm
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• #23
Usually you have to hammer it on with the proper tools.
It will never slide on nicely.But it's also possible that the diameters do not match. Measure it first.
Note that there are 2 different sizes: 27.0 and 26.4 mm.
If the fork crown is 27.0 and the ring is 26.4mm, do not try to press it on.
Then you either need a new fork ring of you have to machine the fork crown with special tools.If the dimensions match, it can be pressed on with proper tools, usually a steel tube with the right sizes.
Less precise, but also functioning: an old cup, that usually has to be pressed into the head tube.
Put it on top of the fork ring (end that usually goes into the headtube should point towards the fork ring) and hammer on top of it. Use a pipe with correct dimensions (big enough to go over the 1" steerer tube, but small enough to hit on the cup).But again, fitting a head set can be done best by someone who has the proper tools.
Most other jobs can be done with regular tools like screw drivers, hex keys, etc. -
• #24
block of wood works too!
I've bought a frame and fork, so to kick off I need to put a headset on, I could do with some advice on whether I should get cheap Tange headset or Campag Record. Really looking for a black one threaded 1" -and is this something I can fit myself from each person I ask I get either one of these two stock responses:
"Bit of wood and a hammer"
or
"Pro job with clamp, that'll be £20 please sire."
Whaddyareckon?
Here's the frame: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170373736947&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Got a bit anal and did a spreadsheet of the dimensions (sheet1) and some component options to put on it (sheet2): http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApJED4wxX4BqdFdCSFVsR3NibmZCbnJnTHpjdmQzZGc&hl=en
Any help or comments would be helpful - even if they're to slag the whole thing off I could do with a laugh.