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• #127
easy guys, im a new member so I'm not allowed to start a new thread, this looked like the most sensible one to post this in though.
I've just started my own bike project, using an old peugeot mangalloy racer. I was looking for some cheap wheels, and came across these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Pair-of-Track-Wheels-Fixie-Courier-Double-Sided-700_W0QQitemZ260418943159QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item3ca22db8b7&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1683|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50
do you think they would be any good?
obviously im not looking for a pro spec build, just something to get to uni on!also, what measurements would i need to take to take sure these will fit my bike?
i come from a bmx background, and things with wheels seem a lot more complex with fixies, like needing to know the dropout spacing and stuff, its a bit confusing!
cheers guys. -
• #128
I presume that's on each side?
Yep, thread visible each side - in other words the Formula's barely got enough axle for a 120mm frame with alloy dropouts ...
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• #129
do you think they would be any good?
...
also, what measurements would i need to take to take sure these will fit my bike?
They should be adequate. For that money though, you could probably keep the existing front (or get any old road front), then find a better rear.
In terms of what will fit, you'll need to check what size rims your frame was built for - might be 27in, might be 700c. 700c are smaller so if you're going to be running a brake/s, you need enough adjustment in the caliper to allow the blocks to strike the rim.
Front dropout spacing is (almost) always 100mm. Rear dropouts on old road frames can be 120mm, more likely (on 5/6/7 speeds) to be 126, later frames 130. Measure between the inside faces of the dropouts: if yours is 126 you might be able to add spacers (or, cheaper, washers) to the axle, or cold-set the frame to the new spacing.
(Cold-set basically means bend. Would need to move each side in by 3mm, and in a perfect world make sure the dropouts remain parallel.)
Or just fit the wheel, tighten the nuts and ride - the frame'll probably spring in by the 6mm, though this is apparently not recommended for the long term.
In short, those wheels will almost certainly fit, or can be made to fit easily.
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• #130
Quick question.
Rear wheel, Gran compes, promax or neither? Can anyone point me in the direction of a double fixed promax 36h? Budget is about 60 quid
Thanks -
• #131
Gran Compe is within your budget go for that. Or shell out extra tenner and get Goldtec. Note the chainline though.
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• #132
i haven't read the whole thread but i thought you may want to add to the original post that zenith, formula, systemex and IRO hubs are all the same thing with different badge:
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• #133
hostilejosh, I get that you can't be bothered to read the whole thread (who does?), but why not just read the very first post?
I've been polite, but its really hard.
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• #134
hostilejosh, I get that you can't be bothered to read the whole thread (who does?), but why not just read the very first post?
I've been polite, but its really hard.
i did i swear! i looked through the list and assumed they would be listed once. missed the line.
:'-(
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• #136
Does anyone know where I can get fairly cheap hubs with allen-key wheel bolts?
Im sure there used to be a few around, I think 'Novatech' but I cant find em anymore.
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• #137
Quick question.
Rear wheel, Gran compes, promax or neither? Can anyone point me in the direction of a double fixed promax 36h? Budget is about 60 quid
ThanksSuzue promax SB (sealed bearing) are only available fix/free. These are the ones which cost around £65
The other Promax are the NJS version with cup&cone bearings. They are fix/fix but cost more.
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• #138
Cheers rik. I'd actually seen that a long time ago, but they were not on sale yet in the UK. Thanks for the find.
Cheers also eyebrows for the UK link.
Its now added.
It looks like they are made in 36h too on the manufacturers website:
http://www.woodmancomponents.com/catalog/categorie.php?cat=hub&lang=en&art=hub18
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• #139
Does anyone know where I can get fairly cheap hubs with allen-key wheel bolts?
Im sure there used to be a few around, I think 'Novatech' but I cant find em anymore.
The Novatec hubs I've seen have tracknuts, not allen bolts.
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• #140
+1
...and are the same as On One.
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• #141
+1
...and are the same as On One.
Damn, you are right. Im sure ive seen some budget track hub with allen key bolts though. (much cheaper than a goldtec)
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• #142
Why not buy On One hubs (they have a hollow axles) and a Halo skewers?
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• #144
overpriced
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• #145
could build you the same wheels for 120ish
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• #146
Prolite is to Shimano as Fulcrum is to Mavic
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• #147
Thought so, the hubs look similar to some of the cheaper ones floating about. Any ideas on what is good? I have about £200 to try and get a flyer into reasonable condition and thought I'd start by tossing the shite wheels. flickwg - I would be interested in something similar for £120, as that would leave me some change for a seat and pedals...
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• #148
one ones hubs - 30 for the pair + postage
rims - machined rigida dp18 - 46 for the pair
spokes - silver - 18 or black more like 25so total is about 125 including build, colours affect the price a bit, silver is cheaper for the spokes. could build an silver set and it would look great, and barely notice its machined
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• #149
Sounds good to me. Any chance of using Gran Compes instead of ones? Would this make much difference to the ride? I know it will jack the price a bit.
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• #150
i think it won't make much difference to the ride, they do look nicer and have slightly better threads, but are very similar, to be honest i wouldn't bother.
HB-7600 Dura-ace is almost gone, I asked a source to check & they have 32 rear hubs left, no fronts left.
They have Front & Rear HB-7710 hubs available, but not that many.
I think I'm going to get a set of Profile hubs for my next purchase, been running them on the bmx for years & never had any issues