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• #27
ya get meeeee
cause i brought it from shopfourteen they said they would install it cheaper then usual so for like 25....
which is still fuckloads more then i got but hey thats life. -
• #28
and its a GripNut
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• #29
every headtube and fork crown should be reamed and faced before installing a headset in it....cuz all the contact surfaces should be pararel with each other which prolongs the life of the headset...this is crucial for chris king becuz it doesnt have any centering cone in the top cup to offset for the misallignement........you will also need a headtube reamer as the diamter of the cups is little bit bigger than on other headset...not remaing the headtube may result in the headtube cracking as the cups are too wide to fit in...............you will also need the chris king press cups and crown race setting cup to go with you workshop quality tools as in not you block of wood and hammer......if you bought it form me i would fit it for free since its a chris king.....otherwise 20-25 quid for fitting which includes reaming and facing....
too technical for all the DIY people here,ha??
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• #30
this is crucial for chris king becuz it doesnt have any centering cone in the top cup to offset for the misallignement........you will also need a headtube reamer as the diamter of the cups is little bit bigger than on other headset
Interesting stuff!
IMHO spending the £20-25 makes sense, as a badly installed chris king would (I guess) perform like one worth a third of the price, thus losing you (theoretically) £60.
@broken_777
I've got a Hope threadless 1,1/8" threadless headset, which I was planning on installing (in a new frame) with my DIY press (http://www.londonfgss.com/post417025-11.html). Should I expect the same issues? -
• #31
i just bodged cup instalation with the wood and hammer method which worked fine as they weren't particularly tight. problem is, that's obviously no good for the fork crown race as you can't knock it from directly above. fed up with buying specialist tools i'm hardly going to use to put together this budget beater/runaround for miss dooks i devised another half-arsed diy solution:
cleaned all the gunge off round the bottom of where the steerer meets the fork and gave it once over with some fine glass paper then wiped it clean. found that the old headset cups i'd removed earlier fitted neatly over the steerer tube (obviously) and sat perfectly on the top edge of the new fork crown race. had to find some way of pressing down more or less equally on the race to stop it going on pissed, so i used a headset spanner placed flat on the old cup. figured that would provide pressure over about 70% of the circumferance. so i covered it with a bit of off-cut leather bar tape and tapped it down, moving the spanner round 45 degrees after each tap. worked a treat. bodge-tastic.
for the record, this was a cheap headset on a cheap bike. wouldn't have tried it on anything worth any money.
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• #32
clever guy, shame i didnt really have a clue(plus im a pussy and it was expensive) so i got shop14 to do it
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• #33
clever guy, shame i didnt really have a clue(plus im a pussy and it was expensive) so i got shop14 to do it
taint nuthin clever bout it guy. i'm broke, bolshy and impatient.
biy ftw.
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• #34
To put on a crown race I used a long piece of hardwood and just hit the top of the wood with a hammer.
Crown race doesn't go on straight to begin with but does eventually.
Doesn't do the wood much good but importantly doesn't damage the crown race or the forks.
This was with an old campag 1" headset.
I did initially take it to a fairly reputable bike shop to install but the guy told me they just use a hammer anyway so I might as well do it myself! -
• #35
i just bodged cup instalation with the wood and hammer method which worked fine as they weren't particularly tight. problem is, that's obviously no good for the fork crown race as you can't knock it from directly above. fed up with buying specialist tools i'm hardly going to use to put together this budget beater/runaround for miss dooks i devised another half-arsed diy solution:
cleaned all the gunge off round the bottom of where the steerer meets the fork and gave it once over with some fine glass paper then wiped it clean. found that the old headset cups i'd removed earlier fitted neatly over the steerer tube (obviously) and sat perfectly on the top edge of the new fork crown race. had to find some way of pressing down more or less equally on the race to stop it going on pissed, so i used a headset spanner placed flat on the old cup. figured that would provide pressure over about 70% of the circumferance. so i covered it with a bit of off-cut leather bar tape and tapped it down, moving the spanner round 45 degrees after each tap. worked a treat. bodge-tastic.
for the record, this was a cheap headset on a cheap bike. wouldn't have tried it on anything worth any money.
When I installed my new headset (and crown race), I used the old crown race to install the new one. I inverted it and used the hammer/screwdriver method. Worked well, but the old crown race is shot....
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• #36
Could well be wrong but not all headsets will fit your fork crown race properly.
You may want to check this before getting out the hammer / rubber mallet / tool of your choice.
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• #37
Could well be wrong but not all headsets will fit your crown race properly.
You may want to check this before getting out the hammer / rubber mallet / tool of your choice.
It's pretty quick and easy to suss that out, though!
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• #38
It's pretty quick and easy to suss that out, though!
True - solving that problem is slightly more tricky though.
it's a quill, chris king headset. because he's bling like that, aincha kyle?