Lockring keeps on coming off

bet i could get it to come off!!

i hope it wont come off again.
but if it does, i would need to change the hub right? Or can i turn the wheel the other way in? It looks like they are the same :O

i do quite a bit of skidding so defo need that ring in!

redrum - can u advise any good shop where to get one in london? I commute from Greenwich to the City.

Also one more thing i wanted to ask about: my backwheel is a bit buckled, when i was adjusting the chain tension last night, i noticed that if i pulled the chain too tight, the wheel would not spin a whole revolution because it touches the side of the frame... I also noticed a spoke which was loose and tried to tight it (by hands again!) but it seems the wheel is not 'true'. Any tips to fix that? :O

FixAxioN

Also one more thing i wanted to ask about: my backwheel is a bit buckled, when i was adjusting the chain tension last night, i noticed that if i pulled the chain too tight, the wheel would not spin a whole revolution because it touches the side of the frame... I also noticed a spoke which was loose and tried to tight it (by hands again!) but it seems the wheel is not 'true'. Any tips to fix that? :O

you really need to get some tools. get a crank brothers multitool (i've got the 17) which comes with everything you need (including a spoke wrench and chain breaker). as for getting your wheel true, you'll need to do adjust all of the spokes respectively to make the wheel round again. the longer you ride a buckling wheel, the worse it will get.

Well i work at putney cycles in south london, so if you've got spd shoes then you're welcome to come and try (provided you don't weight 18st). Not sure what sort of bet you had in mind, perhaps just a sporting challaenge?

sounds like fun, but must tell you im a fat bastad. the reason the lock ring is used is to keep the sprocket on.

FixAxioN i hope it wont come off again.
but if it does, i would need to change the hub right? Or can i turn the wheel the other way in? It looks like they are the same :O

i do quite a bit of skidding so defo need that ring in!

redrum - can u advise any good shop where to get one in london? I commute from Greenwich to the City.

Also one more thing i wanted to ask about: my backwheel is a bit buckled, when i was adjusting the chain tension last night, i noticed that if i pulled the chain too tight, the wheel would not spin a whole revolution because it touches the side of the frame... I also noticed a spoke which was loose and tried to tight it (by hands again!) but it seems the wheel is not 'true'. Any tips to fix that? :O

brick lane bikes for bits...jan and others are all good. but im biased because they mates, but there prices are similar to condor. as for the wheel, if the other side has two different size threads...one for sprocket and the other for lockring the its fine to flip the wheel.

truing a wheel....best try http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html or http://sheldonbrown.com/wheels/index.html give you an idea of what to do. basically for wheel truing if for example the wheel touches the frame on the left side of the bike then this means that you need to tighten the spokes on the right hand side. if its a long buckle the simply find where it starts and finishes and tighten everything on the opposite side.(although this is only for horizontal truing not lateral)

i hope this makes sense, best to check the links.

Something like this keeps happening to my bike. I got the local shop to tighten up the sprocket and lockring for me so thats not the issue.

I've had a look at the hubs thread an it appears to be slightly damaged at the end of the sprockets section. Would this account for the lockring and sprocket flying off? I would have thought the lockring would have still done its job if its thread was intact?

Any suggestions on what might have caused this in the first place?
My hub is a suzue basic and sprocket is an alloy token 15T. Is it possible that the sprocket is the wrong diameter for the hub, or are these sizes standard?

are you trying to use a bb lockring on a track hub?

Don't think so. I've tried the lockring that came with the hub and a spare a friend gave to me.
They both tighten in an anticlockwise direction or equivalently in the direction of reverse pedaling.

http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm

Know others have mentioned but not sure if anyone's provided a link

^^that is a dangerous link, claiming the technique eliminates the need for a lock ring. It's interesting theoretically, but moronic practically. someone's going to get hurt.

YEah I've seen that before. tried that method aswell and they still both pop off when I break hard. Its really altered the way I ride now which is not very fun.

Is it the case that when the threads go (if only slightly) the Hub is useless?

Have you got a freewheel hub and you are using as a fixed hub? I was told the other day, fixed should have two size but on the hub, one for sprocket and one for the lockring. Freewheel tends to be on uniform size. Correct me if i am wrong.
I know some people use the freewheel hub and then use loctite glue on the sprocket and lr to stop that happening when braking.

I have a flip flop hub and Im using the fixed side.

It seems like the threads are damaged and are casuing my problem. Although the question I had about the diameter of the sprocket was because when I was screwing on the sprocket I noticed there was a little give in its motion, say of about 1-2mm. It seemed like the sprocket was slightly too big for the Hub threads. !

Fucked threads=new hub time.

balls.

any suggestions, as this one seemed a little short lived. I can keep the same Sprocket?

Maybe make sure you get a cog/sprocket that fits the hub properly this time if that was the case?

If you want cheap as chips then go for formula hubs, mine lasted ok, although I did strip the cog thread on one side, oh yeah go fixed/fixed that way you have two sides so if you strip one the hub is still useable. Better quality hubs include Goldtec, Profile, Phil Wood, I personally run goldtec and they seem pretty good so far, a lot of people swear by the other brands mentioned as well though.

cheers

Your sprocket is probably ok being that the sprocket is probably some kind of heat treated/tough steel and the hub shell is most likely alloy so its unlikely the threads on the sprocket are damaged, but clean it up and check just incase, and check that it fits your new hubs properly before fitting it, if not just get a new sprocket.

Get us some HQ pics and we can see if the threads a fooked.

YEah will do. Its been riding fine over the last few days with no problem when braking hard and general commuting though so im a bit reluctant to take it off just now..... but I will get some picks over the next few days.

Damned, just found this thread after a quick search on the forum.
The geometry of my beater (a converted old MTB with 700c wheel) make it quite though to skid with... I have to exagerate puting my weigh at the front of the bike and really have to push hard on the pedals... Comparatively, with a similar gear ratio on my other fixed bike (converted old Holdsworth touring) I can skid quite easily...

Anyway, yesterday, I was trying to skid with my beater and the sprocket started to unscrew. When I arrived home, I took the wheel out to re-tight both the sprocket and the lockring but I destroyed the thread of the lockring. Because it is not the first time it had happened, I really wanted to secure it for good... SHIT! And my hub is not fixed fixed...

Because it's my beater, I don't want to buy a new hub... Is there really nothing to do to that? Would loctite help? I don't mind "killing" the hub by "melting" the sprocket onto it, drilling thru it or whatever, for the lifetime of the sprocket (which is new), and then when it's dead I would change the hub, but for the moment I'd like not to...

(Maybe drilling and fit a spindle in 3 points arround like this? anybody tried?)

Szia

Loic

After weeks of mine being fine it went flying off again. so I'd be up for something like this aswell.

Guess there isn't anything that shouldn't make it more dangerous than having the thing flying off all the time.
Have you tried this yet Vello?
Maybe a shit load of soldering and some superglue aswell?

try using locktite..... the red stuff is permanent..... the blue is a bit more forgiving if you want to remove it again without resorting to a sledge hammer! I use locktite blue on all bolts that could work loose through vibration.... works wonders.

ace. I'll get hold of some of that then. guess any old hardware strore should sell it.