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@Courant
Yeah, but you've got to get this in context. It's the top tube length that's the critical dimension, otherwise you're too stretched out or too bunched up. The seatpost goes up and down far more than you can or should adjust a stem.
The reason for Rivendell's suggestion is that, with a traditional horizontal top-tube bike and quill stem, a longer seattube equals a longer headtube, which reduces the handlebar drop. This is fine (and desirable) as long as the top-tube length fits! And it's rendered slightly out of date by sloping top tubes (thus freeing the head-tube length from the constraint of the seat-tube) and stems which come in a range or angles, allowing the bar height to be tuned.
When I look for a frame that might fit, the key dimensions (in order of importance) are: top-tube length; head-tube length; seat-tube length. Unfortunately, most bikes are labelled by seat-tube length alone, when it's the other two that really determine whether you'll be comfortable on the bike, and which can vary quite a lot.