According to Sheldon Brown a 3/32" chain would be better as it is lighter and more forgiving (and compatible with standard road chainrings), and most would agree that a 1/8" drivechain should last longer. There are, in fact, arguments for each being the stronger set-up. Remember in the direction the chain is in torsion, the thickness of the plates are the same.
1/8" = Strong because forces are spread over a thicker chain.
3/32" = The increase in lateral flex results in less stress.
I use 1/8" for:
1) Compatibility with high end track components (although most things can be sourced in 3/32" these days);
2) I built up my bike from scratch so planned for perfect chainline (down to listed sprocket widths to 0.1mm, and then fecked it up anyway); and
3) 1/8" set-ups look more hardcore.
So the only real factors worth considering are the usual - weight vs longevity
According to Sheldon Brown a 3/32" chain would be better as it is lighter and more forgiving (and compatible with standard road chainrings), and most would agree that a 1/8" drivechain should last longer. There are, in fact, arguments for each being the stronger set-up. Remember in the direction the chain is in torsion, the thickness of the plates are the same.
1/8" = Strong because forces are spread over a thicker chain.
3/32" = The increase in lateral flex results in less stress.
I use 1/8" for:
1) Compatibility with high end track components (although most things can be sourced in 3/32" these days);
2) I built up my bike from scratch so planned for perfect chainline (down to listed sprocket widths to 0.1mm, and then fecked it up anyway); and
3) 1/8" set-ups look more hardcore.
So the only real factors worth considering are the usual - weight vs longevity