I have recently molded a new leather top for a 1948 tensioned saddle frame. I used a plaster mold I made for the shape (cast from the old cover). From online researching you need to leave the leather soaking in the water until the tiny bubbles stop rising. The leather I used was over 6.5mm thick and took an hour in the bucket. It was very pliable at that stage. As Skully advises, the water should lukewarm and not be over 60 degrees C or the leather will shrink and becomes brittle as the structure of the leather changes.
The leather was then vacuumed formed over the mold, dried slowly, butchered, edges burnished, proofided and then beeswaxed and hand buffed.
It would have been cheaper to buy a new Brooks, but this bike is being crafted not rushed. Thanks for the inspiration and entertainment.
I have recently molded a new leather top for a 1948 tensioned saddle frame. I used a plaster mold I made for the shape (cast from the old cover). From online researching you need to leave the leather soaking in the water until the tiny bubbles stop rising. The leather I used was over 6.5mm thick and took an hour in the bucket. It was very pliable at that stage. As Skully advises, the water should lukewarm and not be over 60 degrees C or the leather will shrink and becomes brittle as the structure of the leather changes.
The leather was then vacuumed formed over the mold, dried slowly, butchered, edges burnished, proofided and then beeswaxed and hand buffed.
It would have been cheaper to buy a new Brooks, but this bike is being crafted not rushed. Thanks for the inspiration and entertainment.