Track bike geometry charts - I need help

56.9
and 50mm fork rake I think

I can't figure that bike out - the steering seems to be behind the front wheel rather than over it - how do they ride?

I love this thread. It makes my head hurt, but my inner geek is smiling.

Bullseye! :)

I can't figure that bike out - the steering seems to be behind the front wheel rather than over it - how do they ride?

i won't know for a while. but I can say it will prob be a bit like the peregrine from singular.
same ht and fork rake.
more like a tourer- built for comfort.

i won't know for a while. but I can say it will prob be a bit like the peregrine from singular.
same ht and fork rake.
more like a tourer- built for comfort.

absolutely what I was thinking - i'd love to have a go on one

when i've got it, and you're in london, i'd be more than happy for you to try it out.
it probably has to come with me to Beirut, NZ and Japan, so fingers crossed it will be comfy, eh?

I love this thread. It makes my head hurt, but my inner geek is smiling.

if your outer geek manages to keep a straight face, you're gold.

There is no such thing as correct fork offset for a particular head angle - it depends on how you want your frame to handle. A short fork offset with a given head tube angle will give a frame that is more stable at speed and slower to react. Conversely a longer fork offset with a given head tube angle will give a less stable frame at higher speeds. However it will be slower to react to steering by leaning. These days tandems are mostly built with head angles in the 71-73 degree range with quite a lot of fork offset - tandems have plenty of inbuilt stability from their very long wheelbase but are twitchy if if they can be lean steered easily - eg when the rear rider leams outr to see what is in front... Stayer bikes (track bikes used behind motorbikes have forks which point backwards - many cyclists on first seeing one of these think they must be very hard to ride - they are not - the negative fork offset means they love to travel in straight or a near straight line and are incredibly stable at 50-60mph which is what motorpace races are held at.
The conclusion to all this is that the front end frame geometry depends on your taste and the use to which the bike is put... But for the road with an frame that does not depart too far from average size say 54-60cm will not go wrong with about 73 degree head tube angle and 40-45mm of fork offset. Drawing out your frame on cm squared paper at 1/2 or 1/3 scale will help you check on toeclip overlap if that is an issue for you, for standover height if that is an issue though I think both of these are not a serious problem except in smaller than average frames for most riders.

Can anyone suggest a good HTA/offset setup for a track frame of about 60cm (seat tube) that would be able to bar spin a 700c wheel while still maintaining track-like handling suitable for the road?