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@vole
I cycled round the Ijsselmeer a few years ago. Took four days, was offered apples by friendly locals as I coasted past, raced alongside boats on canals, had a highly relaxing time - apart from hacking it against a westerly gale riding towards the north sea in a rush to make the ferry.
Stayed at Utrecht one night and loved it there but I would warn that the region to the east of the Ijsselmeer totally shuts down on Sundays. It's how I remember Britain in the 1970s but without the flares. No ferries, toll bridges, or shops for food/drink. I later discovered this region is termed 'Black Stocking Country' because it is heavily Protestant and observant of the rules of God.