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• #2
None. Use grease.
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• #3
Loctite #242
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• #4
Finish Line Assembly Lube.
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• #5
I had my cog/lock ring slip twice when I 'fitted it properly' with grease, so that's out of the window and Loctite is in!
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• #6
I'd suggest using a lockring tool then :)
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• #7
Red
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• #8
http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm
than tighten up the lockring shitloads
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• #9
^ +1
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• #10
I love how clever people are on here. Yes, I used a lockring tool.
I always rotafix my cogs, but it's no good if the lockring is shit and wont stay. I've been using #243 but don't know the difference between them. It's in a red tube, but the stuff itself is blue - @Nahguavkire - when you say red do you mean the tube or the liquid is red?
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• #11
well one's blue and the other's red, not sure about which part of the packaging but you'll be able to tell the difference
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• #12
I love how clever people are on here. Yes, I used a lockring tool.
are you using good components? Also matching the cog & lock ring i find tends to help .ie dura-ace/dura-ace
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• #13
I had my cog/lock ring slip twice when I 'fitted it properly' with grease, so that's out of the window and Loctite is in!
You're doing something wrong and it's not the grease.
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• #14
Good luck getting that cog off again; I have a 15T Phil cog on the freewheel side of my Phil hubs that is never coming off after I used Loctite 243 to run it on the track last year.
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• #15
Grease, fact. As above, need all the help you can get getting them off!
Have only used Loctite on a bike once, on a headset star nut thread. Although I suspect it loosened due to the split wedge type crown race. Tempted to try some soft stuff on my nipples (heh) but have good results with light oil. I would consider Loctite to be a last resort rather than best practice.
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• #16
well one's blue and the other's red, not sure about which part of the packaging but you'll be able to tell the difference
What I meant was whether the actualy liquid is a different colour or not. I know that the packaging/tube can be a number of colours, but the Loctite itself I have only ever seen as blue.
are you using good components? Also matching the cog & lock ring i find tends to help .ie dura-ace/dura-ace
I have a Miche hub, so I have to either use a Miche, Campagnolo or Phil lockring. So that makes it even harder and more expensive to match the parts.
You're doing something wrong and it's not the grease.
Well, as I said above, I have only a couple of choices on lockring and I've heard that the Miche lockrings are made of butter. Which may explain why mine slipped twice in a day.
Good luck getting that cog off again; I have a 15T Phil cog on the freewheel side of my Phil hubs that is never coming off after I used Loctite 243 to run it on the track last year.
I've removed the loctited cog twice since it's been fitted and it came off no problem. I just used a normal lock ring tool and then the reverse rotafix method to unscrew the cog itself. -
• #17
Sounds like it's not tight enough. The cog needs to be on 'murder tight' before you fit the lockring. Try wedging your chain whip into something and turning the wheel instead - more leverage but don't strip your threads! Can also try a piece of chain nailed onto a work bench etc.
If in doubt consult your LBS, they may spot something we're missing.
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• #18
You're doing something wrong and it's not the grease.
+1
There are loads of different Loctites that you can buy (not sure what the difference is between each one) and I was just wondering which one people use on their bike parts, more specifically on their cog/lock ring.