Current Projects chat and miscellany

well DT sell radial specific hubs and some hubs are not guaranteed for radial lacing.

my DT mon-chasserals have the spokes on the inside, i guess their know their shit.

If you wanna run radial, first only ever do it on the front. Second, get a forged hub, not machined. Third, less holes = better for radial. With 36h there is less metal between holes so it's easier for spokes to rip out of the flange. I'm planning to run radial on my front (on the bike I just posted) once I get the right hub :)

well DT sell radial specific hubs and some hubs are not guaranteed for radial lacing.

I heard Paul hubs, amongst others, are void of warranty if laced radially. Was news to me, but makes perfect sense i guess.

my DT mon-chasserals have the spokes on the inside, i guess their know their shit.

Rightly said!

I've built radial fronts (always with the spoke bend on the inside). I can't comment on whether I'm losing any stability by doing this. But it looks neat, is easy to clean, and I've not had any problems.

I used 32h forged hubs in all cases, including a teenie weenie Dura Ace with about 10mm flange!

yes.
ask him, I know he built my Goldtec/ Hplus the other way round to normal.

hes a genius, so ask him!

I built up a pair of wheels using the Sheldon Brown method. I didn't have a truing stand/or access to one at the time, and as i'd spent a lot of money on the rims and hubs, i wanted a really nice build. Took the wheels to Arup to be tensioned and trued. Didn't actually think to much of the results, the front came slightly out of true after a little bump. Took the wheels into Brixton cycles. Mog told me that Fixed wheels were generally built to the tension of around 1000 Newtons, and my wheels were about 700. Don't personaly know how tight the spokes should be, but nevertheless, i wasn't too impressed with the job Arup had done.

This is my current project. It's a 531C frame and forks, Cinelli 66 bars, 1A stem, Campag headset, Shimano chainset (lame, used to be Campag), Campag seatpost, old and squeaky KMC chain.

So far (as you can see in the pic) I removed the bar tape, polished and fitted bmx levers. Just needs a new chain and new rear wheel... plus new front to match! Lovely geometry though and great to ride - but then it's 531 innit?!

But it has got Swallow printed down the down tube. lol.
Only joking, very nice - i really wanted a road bike!

But it has got Swallow printed down the down tube. lol.
Only joking, very nice - i really wanted a road bike!

yups i've heard those jokes! and will hear them again, lol! i was thinking of respraying, but really in real life the paintwork is lovely. after a while of riding, if it gets too scratched i will have it professionally sprayed. right now i'm loving the lugs and the fact that it's pretty much completely original. but it's 531C in my size! seriously, i wouldn't care if it was sprayed with vomit having ridden it. 531 - only way to travel :)

Thinking of swapping the black Thomson stem and seat post, bars and Advanced chainring for shiny silver parts to give the BK a summer facelift.
Possibly Dura Ace aero post, Silver Thomson stem, silver bars, Black champs, and a nice silver Miche chainring. Also prob gear down a little and take the brake off, oh and a black suede Concor! . . . . Thoughts?

But Duncan, you have lovely bits on there already!?! This isn't fashion, darling! ;p

dude! you so need to put some Gucci on that bike!

paint black the letter form the chainring, it will look like a new bike

Not keen on this myself. Puts further unnecessary bend at the head of the spoke, plus it makes a right mess of the outside of the flange if tensioned up properly. I would usually argue that the way pictured would be more stable, as the spokes will be much straighter. If it's stability you're after go for any crossed pattern, preferably 3 cross. Simple.

+1, i think it stresses the outer lip of the flange.

most hubs manufacturers don't warranty it, although i heard about some being replaced free of charge.

If you wanna run radial, first only ever do it on the front. Second, get a forged hub, not machined. Third, less holes = better for radial. With 36h there is less metal between holes so it's easier for spokes to rip out of the flange. I'm planning to run radial on my front (on the bike I just posted) once I get the right hub :)

most hubs manufacturers don't warranty it, although i heard about some being replaced free of charge.

It's the standard lacing on a Brompton front wheel. Any idea why, dogs?*

• no cheap comments
  

nope, apart from fractionally cheaper and lighter

I built up a pair of wheels using the Sheldon Brown method. I didn't have a truing stand/or access to one at the time, and as i'd spent a lot of money on the rims and hubs, i wanted a really nice build. Took the wheels to Arup to be tensioned and trued. Didn't actually think to much of the results, the front came slightly out of true after a little bump. Took the wheels into Brixton cycles. Mog told me that Fixed wheels were generally built to the tension of around 1000 Newtons, and my wheels were about 700. Don't personaly know how tight the spokes should be, but nevertheless, i wasn't too impressed with the job Arup had done.

I'm hoping you spoke to Arup to inquire why this had happened to your wheel? so he could offer explanation, recompense, or rebuild/retension the wheels for you...

But Duncan, you have lovely bits on there already!?! This isn't fashion, darling! ;p

Of course it is!

Indeed! Concors are by far my favourite saddle, think i've got like 5 or 6 of them now, one for every bike. And yes, the new ones are far more comfy...although, seeing as my others are practically ancient, i can't say if perhaps they were that comfy new, and from years of use have hardened up?! Dunno. But yeah, definitely new concors FTW!

Duncan, think those changes would be cool...nice and fresh for t'summer. But then i am a fan of silver bits with black wheels, a la my new cooper trooper. Yep.

Think I've already made up my mind, now need to seel some bits to fund changes!

paint black the letter form the chainring, it will look like a new bike

+1 or new chainring

I think Arup likes to build them the other way 'round. because it adds stability?
ask him, he's unbelievably good at wheelbuilding.

But the right way 'round was good enough for Campagnolo... so it should be ok..

For people wanting a radial front, I can recommend the pictured hub.... and the rim.. and the spokes :)

If you wanna run radial, first only ever do it on the front. Second, get a forged hub, not machined. Third, less holes = better for radial. With 36h there is less metal between holes so it's easier for spokes to rip out of the flange. I'm planning to run radial on my front (on the bike I just posted) once I get the right hub :)

Nothing's wrong with half-radial on a dished rear though.. can't do on double fixed, but works fine on a Miche Primato.

This worked fine for me for about 6 months last year, and will again this summer:

Had to replace the CXP14 rim once though, since the wheel was run over by a cab.

just got hands on a bareknuckle frame. Headset needs replacing. Just trying work out best silver black ratio, poss silver stem and headset and silver seatpost, not sure.

Like it.
Silver seatpost would look good

sitting in my college library whilst i continue my 48hr fucking work till i finish my dissertation time is:
white regal, nitto track bars, some grips, some doubles, some mks RX1s, double clips, single clips, white industries eno cranks, external BB track cranks (on one), aerospoke, on one hub, black carbon seatpost, and Superprecise's t shirts (one of which i'm wearing, as I had to shower in a can today).

Holy mother of god, and they all fit in my grobag, including 20 odd papers, couple of notebooks from the lab, laptop, big fuck off text book, and shoes and a change of clothes.

i love you Scott. :)

If you wanna run radial, first only ever do it on the front. Second, get a forged hub, not machined. Third, less holes = better for radial. With 36h there is less metal between holes so it's easier for spokes to rip out of the flange. I'm planning to run radial on my front (on the bike I just posted) once I get the right hub :)

i have a 36h campag low-flange front hub. I was gonna get it laced radially, is there really a problem with high spoke count hubs (spoke ripping out etc.) I'd have thought that the extra spokes would reduce stresses etc. It's only for road riding (no tricky tricky)

New to this forum and the fixed gear world, tried a mates the other day and want one, so I am trying to build one. Have this frame, i think its a 60s Cartlon Clubman.
Currently the stem is stuck. Any suggestions on that, and thoughts in general much appreciated.

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I've built radial fronts (always with the spoke bend on the inside). I can't comment on whether I'm losing any stability by doing this. But it looks neat, is easy to clean, and I've not had any problems.

I used 32h forged hubs in all cases, including a teenie weenie Dura Ace with about 10mm flange!

that voids the warranty for the hub (the dura-ace).

My Felt cross bike has a Felt hub laced radially with bend on inside. Realise it doesn't sound right to say 'if it's good enough for Felt' but doubt they would risk it in the sue your ass off American culture.
Also stood up to my abuse so far, and it gets much more abuse than most road bikes.

just got hands on a bareknuckle frame. Headset needs replacing. Just trying work out best silver black ratio, poss silver stem and headset and silver seatpost, not sure.

All silver, black seat, black grips, black tyres. Nice choice of frame!