Istanbul

notes from a friend

In no particluar order (at all!)
1) Explore some of the back streets just off Istiklal Caddesi after 9pm, but
lots of nice funky little bars and restaurants. Cheap and GOOD Turkish food.
Try to avoid the restaurants on the more commercial Istiklal Caddesi itself.

2) Istiklal Caddesi is fascinating if you like 'behind' the shops so to
speak. It was the part of Istanbul where visitors from all over the world
used to stay and there is a "church" for almost every faith on the same
street. I think it is very interesting, but then being completely atheist,
religion is one of those things I'd like to understand…

3) Modern Istanbul, as the name may suggest, is the museam of modern art. I
think its open late on Thursday night. Unfortunately I didn't manage to get
down in time (I got my late nights mixed up) to tell you much about it but I
did smoke some Hookah (locally called Shisha) in the bars outside – really
very local (I mean NO tourists)

4) Palace Cistern or Yerebatan Saray IS a tourist attraction but one worth
seeing. Its one of those things that they don't seem to have an explaination
for and I find it very interesting. I travelled around mainland Turkey with
my Japenesse friend Maya in 1998, we visited the underground cities of
Kapadokia, Yerebatab Saray reminded me of them. It is a must!

5) Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque – I didn't actually go in these, by this
stage I was a bit "mosqued out" but I did sit in the gardens between Hagia
Sophia and the Blue Mosque at dusk eating sardine sandwiches and listening
to the call to prayer - very atmospheric.

6) the Whirling Dervishes at Galata Mevlevihanesi (end of the Istiklal St.)
I think they perform on Sundays. You need to go along and book a ticket to
see them. In my mind it is some kind of weird cult and probably one of the
most disturbing things I've ever sat through. Please please please go I'd
love to get your thoughts! It's banned in Turkey (rightly so me thinks) and
somehow the tourist (probably through Time Out) flock to see it – it
provoked many questions!.

7)I was there for a week so I managed to go to The Chora church mosaics.
Whats nice about going to somewhere like The Chora is it is set in a
peaceful surburban feeling little place. You need to go by taxi, its about
20 mins ride from Sultanahmet. By the way Istambul is very hilly!

8) I suppose I lived the expat life and got a yaght up the Bosphorus river,
but if I were you I'd use the boat ferries as these give fantastic views of
the city.

9) The Pera Palace Hotel Bar for cocktails for a slice of 1920's Istanbul
(this is where Agatha Christie stayed). Try to steal the bar menu card as
it lists all the famous people who stayed or drank there! The
lift is fun to go up in too. Gus, there is another hotel which is part of a
posh Russian chain that you must walk past… remind me I said this, it will
come to me when I am not so tired

10) the Saturday morning market in Ortakoy (take a Bosphorus ferry); nice
coffee shops and restaurants there too; cheap silver/jewellery market and
knick-knacks.

11) nice little back street restaurants in Arnavutkoy (further up the
Bosphorous so go by ferry, but don't carry on further up the Bosphorous as
the little towns there become a tourist trap

12) The Grand Bazaar is fab!!!! but then i am a girl. its great to get
lost, drink mint tea (well I would but you don't like tea) and smoke a
hookah (or maybe not for you!), Still, the place is amazing

13) The original home of Turkish Delight - a little cute shop sort of near
(not in) the Spice Bazaar called Haci Bekir is worth visiting, I'm sure I
would point it out to you if you get a map. Nicely wrapped boxes of it too.
Sold by the weight. Bring me some back I love Turkish Delight. Either way
take a strole through the Spice Bazaar

Places to eat/drink:
1) Try the top floor outdoor café of the Goethe Institute for amazing views
across the Bosphorus and the mosque skyline. Down a little hill off of the
main Istiklal street. The stairwell is great, i alsmost got virtigo!!!

2) Another really fab view is a restaurant called 360. The food is a bit of
a Euro/Turk fusion and probably overpriced so I'd just pop up there for a
drink – very trendy! (well typical time out readers - if you know what i
mean?)

3) Ortakoy (you'll need a boat trip - so that's good!) has lots of eateries,
and Banyan Ortakoy is a good choice. Lots of restaurants that have
char-grilled seabass (for fish lovers like me) and fresh mezes round there.
It is a nice way to spend your evening

4) Go to one of the rice-pudding shops and try one - lots of weird
flavourings. It's called 'Sutlac'.

5) There is a lovely little lunch spot café in one of the side streets off
Istiklal called something like 'Limon Bahlu or Bahce'. It has a lovely
garden setting, very nice on a Sunday, and has wildlife hopping around and
tortoises wander about and all sorts – its so charming. You could consult
Time Out for the address.