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• #2
work OK, although i prefer old skool 15mm hex head and dust caps.
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• #3
Be warned: They make you cranks very easy to steal.
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• #4
I would say theft is a big reason not to use them, so if you have bling cranks and leave it locked then go for std bolts. On my MTB I had to replace one of mine with a standard one as couldn't stop the thing squeaking.
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• #5
To be fair, I should point out my pretty bike has these bolts but I only screw in the allen bolt. I leave one of the extrctor caps in my bag in case I need it.
This mean's they're as hard o steal as normal cranks (Whilch is still pretty easy).
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• #6
i have just tied to take off some strongshite cranks with self-extracting bolts, and BOTH of the black washer things have shat themselves, ruining the thread on the ds crank.
what the fuck is going on?supremely fucking cunted off.
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• #7
oh man. that sucks....
old fashioned extractor ftw.
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• #8
I had that happen on a left hand stronglight crank...had to beat it off with a lump hammer.
I'd recommend to anyone with those stronglight cranks to remove those bloody things, but i guess that doesn't help you now. Truly sucks dude.
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• #9
yep. at least th cranks are still on, and i can just put the bolts back on.
it fucken blows. i totally agree with pga - take the stupid things off. -
• #10
i have just tied to take off some strongshite cranks with self-extracting bolts, and BOTH of the black washer things have shat themselves, ruining the thread on the ds crank.
what the fuck is going on?supremely fucking cunted off.
Don't know about the modern ones, but I'm pretty sure older Stronglight cranks have a different size thread for the crankbolt covers/extractor, this might be the problem, though if they were smaller you shouldn't have been able to get the caps screwed in. If they're larger (the threads on the crank) maybe they're close enough that you could screw the caps in, but sufficiently different that once you put pressure on the caps by trying to extract the bolts that they stripped the thread instead of biting enough to pull the crank off. Hope that makes sense, but yeah that sucks :)
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• #11
^ agreed, Stronglight used different extractor threads - not even the same as the old TA threading.
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• #12
There are new(ish) stronglight cranks with stronglight extractor-washers things.
I am assuming they came as a set - LBS put the bike together.I have significantly older cranks on the peugeot and used a std extractor tool.
it does seem that the extractors didn't have enough bite, and were just pushed out by the bolts.
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• #13
Then it's just user error / cheap self-extractor. haa.
What is wrong with the Bob - did you execute the old cranks so you can upgrade...? -
• #14
there is a weird noise down below, so while i had it apart cleaning it, i was going to take the bb out - clean, grease etc. wish i hadn't bothered.
i ordered a new one too, but cancelled the order after waiting 2 weeks for delivery.
maintenance and cleaning is for mugs.
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• #15
maintenance and cleaning is for mugs.
defo, i haven't cleaned mine since i built it :)
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• #16
the crunchy noise was getting on my tits.
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• #17
If it ain't broke... then fuck it.
EDIT - which BB was it? -
• #18
I had that problem, with a new set of Stronglight track cranks. Three weeks after getting them and I decide to put them on a different frame. Took the drive side off no problem, but on the other side the dust cap somehow got stuck in the threads and disintegrated, ripping out half the threads as it came....and so I couldn't attach the crank extractor.
I phoned up Outspoken Cycles (where I bought them three weeks previously) and they said it would be a manufacturing fault - not theirs - but weirdly they had a spare left hand crank arm 'lying around' and would send it to me free!
It does mean that the LH arm will have to forever stay on my pug, but I don't really have a problem with that.
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• #19
Rant start
My BB came with allen key bolts, but my campagnolo pista crankset came with hex bolts. The hex bolts meant I could put those shinny caps on so I went for them.
After ridding around for a bit I thought I would torque up my crank bolts some more.
I fecking managed to snap one of the crank bolts! buggerlugs!
OK, I think, so whats fecked?
Pricey cranksets OK
Pricey titanium BB not looking too heathly, shite.Just spent a stressful 30mins drilling a small hole in one side of what was left of the bolt, so I could screw a screw into it. Then tapping the screw around gently to unscrew the broken bolt.
Saved it
and breatheRant over
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• #20
Doesn't allan key bolts = hex bolts?
I thought they were the same (Allan keys have six edges) ? -
• #21
Stud extractors ftw.
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• #22
Doesn't allan key bolts = hex bolts?
I thought they were the same (Allan keys have six edges) ?Hex
Allen
;) -
• #23
Doesn't allan key bolts = hex bolts?
I thought they were the same (Allan keys have six edges) ?Socket head for pedants
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• #24
hex key
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• #25
i have just tied to take off some strongshite cranks with self-extracting bolts, and BOTH of the black washer things have shat themselves, ruining the thread on the ds crank.
what the fuck is going on?supremely fucking cunted off.
This has happened to me on every (new type) stronglight crank I've ever used.
They're self extracting plastic shitness knows no boundaries.
They should be burned and their ashes pissed on.
fucking useless design.I know use Miche.
good? bad?
i already have a crank puller, but the self extracting bolts work out a bit cheaper (and easier to find) than old-fashioned bolts and covers, and i don't like those standard black plastic ones that all the bike shops sell!
any reason i should avoid them, or is there not much between them?