Stripping a hub thread?

... Threads on a Hub

Has anyone ever had the threads on their hub go through use only? I was riding around on the polo bike yesterday and threads on an Ambrosio gave up the ghost (threads on the cog - big ass 22 I got from HH last week - are fine). I completely concede that it could have been cross threaded - although I don't think it was... I've been riding the bike hard (brakeless, so lots of skidding - and I'm a big guy). It was tight and nothing was slipping until last night when coming home when the cog was no longer driving anything.

So - threads failing after a week. Possible? If so, I'm not riding my polo bike anywhere but polo anymore.

if it was crossthreaded, you'd know as the cog wouldn't be parallel to the wheel. And you'd be able to see it on the hub thread, though now it's totally fuc'd it might be more difficult.

hard steel cog vs. soft alu hub, thread failure does happen, though it shouldn't after a week and I'd probably go back to the mfr.

what make cog? did you rotafix, or just use your own leg power to tighten up the cog?

Yeah, like I said, I didn't notice any cross threading when I put it on, but I also don't pay THAT much attention to the the flushness after it's on (although I'm super attentive when I'm initially screwing it on).

The cog says "Made in England Williers". Guessing it's made in England, by Williers.

I tightened the cog with a chain whip. Leg power after that I suppose. Massive massive leg power.

maybe the cog was old and the threads were shallow hence the stripping from poor binding ?

Was wondering something similar. Tried to "measure" them with my screw driver (with which I was digging out the old threads). In any case, I got the 19 off the other side, so I put the 22 back on. Just not going to ride it as a normal bike - polo only.

i think it's cos you're nearly as fat as hippy.

I think it's 'cause I let you have a go.

-1

I recently moved from a standard 16t sprocket on my Langster to a DA 15t, tightened it on but the lockring wouldn't tighten, had a closer look and saw the 15t was wider than my original 16t, I thought i'd stripped the thread of the hub or lockring, but I took the sprocket off and the lockring tightens fine, anybody have any idea what could be wrong?

I'm thinking of filing/milling down the sprocket to see if that'll fix it but thought i'd ask on here before doing anything permanent.

If I did strip it, is it more likely that the thread on the hub is buggered or that on the lockring? I was told that it'll most likely be the hub but surely the lockrings are manufactured to be weaker in the case of this happening as they're easier to replace.

Is the sprocket or lockring alloy or steel?

have you also bought a new lockring? the lockring that comes as standard is not so good, might be worth picking up a DA lockring and see if that fits better with the cog.

also worth noting that there are 2 separate threads on the hub, one for the lockring and one for the cog. the lockring tightens anticlockwise to stop it unscrewing. sorry if you already know this... but it's always worth double-checking the obvious

If I did strip it, is it more likely that the thread on the hub is buggered or that on the lockring? I was told that it'll most likely be the hub but surely the lockrings are manufactured to be weaker in the case of this happening as they're easier to replace.

If the sprocket is steel, the hub's threads will more likely be stripped.

I'd be tempted to scrub the threads down with wd40, dry, regrease (use anti-seize) then tighten the sprocket on again as far as it will go and see if that makes a difference. You might just have a build up of shit on the sprocket thread.