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• #27
thats got wind up written all over it lol
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• #28
and my formula doesn't?
and hacksaws are fine.
i cut down the carbon steerer on my reynolds forks with a junior hacksaw no problems.and i like to take my HTFU in a nice and easy chewable tablet....i'm not very good at swallowing things.
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• #29
.i'm not very good at swallowing things.
I've heard different...
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• #30
ha!
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• #31
just make sure they are not narrower than your hips- getting stuck between two buses isn't fun
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• #32
thats got wind up written all over it lol
try it dude, it works!
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• #33
i saw a proper 1 1/8 steerer cutter on ebay.
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• #34
i saw a proper horse in a field.
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• #35
liar
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• #36
no. i really did.
i also once saw a proper fish in a pond. -
• #37
that's nothing, i heard someone saw a porpoise in the thames.
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• #38
I have a pipe cutter in my possession at the moment.
If you would like to use it just holla. -
• #39
appreicate that man;
will do some measuring/ testing tonight and maybe give u a pm over the weekend
cheers!
David -
• #40
replace the blade in your cutter, it'll cost you pennys (assuming it's just the cutting wheel you've broken) and try again but only wind it in a little, run it around a few times 'till it feels easy to turn, wind in a little and repeat. I've cut the stearer on 3 sets of forks and a few bars too. just take it easy.
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• #41
Had to cut through 90's overbuilt bmx handlebars a few times, thick 4130 steel is still do-able with a hacksaw.
Did some aluminium mtb bars recently and they felt like air in comparison.
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• #42
DONT USE A HACKSAW!!!!
You will only destroy everything with a funny angled bar end or summit. Treat yourself to a plumbers pipe cutter FTW. Costs you less then a fiver and will cut your bars at a perfect 90 degree angle.
only if you are spazzticated. hacksawing risers is easy peasy.
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• #43
DONT USE A HACKSAW!!!!
You will only destroy everything with a funny angled bar end or summit.
what in the name of fuck is this mumbo-jumbo?
use a hacksaw. it's not that hard: you saw, it cuts the bit off you don't want.
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• #44
Also, don't feel like you have to cut any of it off if you don't want, david. Nitto risers aren't that wide to start off with. It's not the law that when you get handlebars, you have to cut bits of them off to make them shorter.
My handlebars are mega wide (well they're moustache bars). I might not get hipster points, but I'm comfortable and get BEAR leverage when sprinting or hill climbing.
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• #45
I might not get hipster points, ....
???
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• #46
If and when you do decide to cut them down, as people have said make sure you file them otherwise the rough ends will tear through your grips. If you think the freshly chopped bars will tear the grips put a penny in the end and that should save them.
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• #47
Also, don't feel like you have to cut any of it off if you don't want, david. Nitto risers aren't that wide to start off with. It's not the law that when you get handlebars, you have to cut bits of them off to make them shorter.
My handlebars are mega wide (well they're moustache bars). I might not get hipster points, but I'm comfortable and get BEAR leverage when sprinting or hill climbing.
Me too, all the fashionistas giggle & sneer at my non-scene conforming ways.
Personally think too short bars especially when combined with a longish stem creates one of the most unpleasant ride characteristic. Id prefer to go round with flat tyres.
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• #48
Also, don't feel like you have to cut any of it off if you don't want, david. Nitto risers aren't that wide to start off with. It's not the law that when you get handlebars, you have to cut bits of them off to make them shorter.
Just look at what chicago and yorker couriers were doing 3 yrs ago and copy them. seems to be the cool thing to do-that is i presume why you're trimming em? Do something fresh and use your stem with one hand.
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• #49
bandsaw ftw
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• #50
- Worked out my desired width,
- measured up how much was coming off,
- made a small pen mark at the top and another at the bottom,
- wrapped a piece of masking tape round the bar making sure it was even by following the marks on the top and bottom,
- then cut using the masking tape as a guide
- Worked out my desired width,
Measure the distance between the edge of your hand and the middle of the 'Y' in the picture.
Then work it out with the following formula:
l = (2.h + r.cc) / (s.b)
where h is the hand width (in mm), cc is wheel size in (mm), s is stem diameter in (mm), b is bar diameter in (mm), r is the 'rise' on the risers (in mm) and w is the length you should cut the nittos - in cm for some reason!
That's what I use anyway![URL="http://www.centenaryarchers.gil.com.au/images/bow-hand.GIF"][/URL]