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@Zippie
I use the Sheldon method, more or less.
Put the bike upside down, turn until you find a tight spot, slacken bolts but not completely just enough to allow the chainring to move if it receives a tap, then tap the chain to move the ring slightly - because it is at a tight spot it should move the chainring slightly in such a way to remove some of the tight spot tension, then tighten bolts a little, rotate again to see if there is still a tight spot then begin again if yes. Aim to have a significant improvement, not perfection.
This has worked for me.
Afterwards when you position the wheel do in a way so that there is a little slack in the chain when you feel with your fingers, but not enough that you can feel movement when you check by moving the cranks backwards and forwards. The wheel should turn freely, check over the whole rotation as a really tight spot left will potentially damage bearings and also increase drive train resistance (of course).