New SRAM Torpedo Fixed/Free Hub

Despite how it may appear from my English typing skills.

I'm English, just a patriotic ex pat ;)

You went their for the girls didn't you? Go on, its safe to admit it.

You're still our top-secret mole though.

Yep, totally true.

Of all the English people I meet over here, at least 90% are men with a Norwegian wife.

Story goes something like....
"Hello tall blonde lady can I buy you a drink?"
"No allow me"
next morning
"what happened last night my heads killing me, whys it so bloody cold here?"

Kings are wank Mr Badger, not designed for massive torques which is why they fuck up when used in trials, and when they skip they skip a full rotation, they're expensive as fuck and don't last long, i've seen a king seriously fuck up internally after about a year of light trials use. Plus other times, where they just die. Only had bad experiences with them.

They're overpriced pieces of shit.

I rode trials for a good 5 years. Couldn't even begin to afford a king hub then. Got through my fair share of Royce and hope hubs though. I don't think their is any hub on the market that will take the punishment handed out by trials riding without failing (eventually). Paul smith of emmbuck used to rate the sun rear hubs, never ever seen one in the flesh though. CK are expensive, but mainly because their imported from and made in the states.

Their is a host of more affordable hubs on the market. Only complaint of Hope of late is the alloy freehub bodys, soft as funk and resonate in a dead sounding manner.

Only complaint of Hope of late is the alloy freehub bodys, soft as funk and resonate in a dead sounding manner.

What exactly do you mean by free hub body?
Pretend that I'm thick.....OK I am thick. Is it the bit with splines, you slide the cassette onto? As I was under the impression that was steel on the trials version.

Indeed, the carrier for the cassette. It may well be steel on the trials spec. version. However even on an xc bike the loose sprockets chew up alloy (or even Ti) splines. It's not so bad on campag splines as they are deeper, but Hope dont do campag. Hope seem to have sacked off titanium. Is it too expensive to machine? Prob wears the bits out rapidly.

Like this example. Looks like it would be a good idea to develope a sprocket with greatly increased inner thickness (ie the bit that contacts the splines). Would probably only work for single speed, with a slight reduction in chainline versatility, but I'd have thought it was worth it.

1 Attachment

Indeed, the carrier for the cassette. It may well be steel on the trials spec. version. However even on an xc bike the loose sprockets chew up alloy (or even Ti) splines. It's not so bad on campag splines as they are deeper, but Hope dont do campag. Hope seem to have sacked off titanium. Is it too expensive to machine? Prob wears the bits out rapidly.

Whey you say alloy do you mean aluminum (a frequent mistake that is even used on many shop websites) or do you mean a steel based alloy or a aluminum based alloy?

Like this example. Looks like it would be a good idea to develope a sprocket with greatly increased inner thickness (ie the bit that contacts the splines). Would probably only work for single speed, with a slight reduction in chainline versatility, but I'd have thought it was worth it.

Indeed, seems stupid to even have spacers between the sprockets, although pesumably the reason for it is to shave as much weight as possible. However if the sprocket was stepped at the spline, it could act as a spacer. For instance..

9spd (shimano) sprocket is 1.76mm thick, the spacer is 2.56mm thick, why not just make the bottoms of the sprockets 3.04mm thick, keeping the sprocket 1.76mm thick at the teeth where the chain is running.

Whey you say alloy do you mean aluminum (a frequent mistake that is even used on many shop websites) or do you mean a steel based alloy or a aluminum based alloy?

Sorry aluminium alloy. (slaps wrist)

Exactly what I was thinking.

My next thought is (apon discovering your free body is dented) simply adjust chainline at the front, and then move the sprocket along the splines accordingly. You could probably only do this once or twice depending on set-up, but could be worth it.

Would work with one sprocket, but not 9.