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• #2
Tighten it up!
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• #3
borrow a tool off someone..
make sure the cog and lockring are tight as fuck.
I have heard tell of cheap sprockets not being wide enough to cover the thread and consequently the lockring runs out of it's own thread before touching the sprocket, causing slippage.
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• #4
Cheers guys. The cog is very tight as my chain whip gets it tight enough. Maybe just underestimated the extra tightness a tool with give. It does look like the sprocket has covered the thread so will try a tool (cheaper than buying new hub/wheel!)
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• #5
I have heard tell of cheap sprockets not being wide enough to cover the thread and consequently the lockring runs out of it's own thread before touching the sprocket, causing slippage.
...and in that case you can jam ring pulls off a can of coke (or similar) between the sprocket and lockring.
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• #6
you ridiculous fool
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• #7
When I skid the sprocket goes back about a quarter of a turn. Then goes forward a quarter of a turn when putting pressure back on the pedals to go forwards.
I have not used a lockring tool to put the lockring on (bodged it with screwdriver/hammer) but it seems to be screwed on as hard as it can.
What I am asking is does anyone think that even doing the lockring up with a tool would stop this much 'play' or is it just the poor tolerances of a cheap hub that are not allowing the lockring to screw on as far as it needs to?
Don't want to shell out £20 for a tool if it is going to make no difference!
HTFU and tighten your fackin lock ring like a man
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• #8
HTFU and tighten your fackin lock ring like a man
That's the problem, I have been doing it like a man (with hammer and screwdriver).
And I have been hitting it with a good bit of force so will have to see if the correct tool does more than that (no doubt something about rotational forces/leverage that can't be obtained by hitting the crap out of it!)
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• #9
I had this problem. Buying extra tools didn't help cause a normal chainwhip can't get the sprocket tight enough.
Rotafix the sprocket on, then use a lockring tool with an extension bar or something for the lockring.
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• #10
That's the problem, I have been doing it like a man (with hammer and screwdriver).
And I have been hitting it with a good bit of force so will have to see if the correct tool does more than that (no doubt something about rotational forces/leverage that can't be obtained by hitting the crap out of it!)
my lockring says to apply 30lbs of force to it. porbs best to use the real tool
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• #11
Some of this should sort out the problem..
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• #12
New here, all you need is a washer to fit over the thread, used to be common in 1/16th inch thick. Check the chain line to see whether to place on the hub first or under the LHT locking ring.
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• #13
I had a problem with my ring once then hippy sorted it for me.
Cheap too.
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• #14
Even cheaper now with the VAT reduction. hippy's ring thing for the win!
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• #15
...and in that case you can jam ring pulls off a can of coke (or similar) between the sprocket and lockring.
You know how many people gave me the what-the-fuck-are-you-doing look when I did that to my polo bike at brick lane? Perfectly good free spacers, ringpulls..
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• #16
If I can't find any sticky tape I use Kraft Singles..
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• #17
This psycho Kraft bitch agrees..
In 1960s they said "Victory!" instead of For The Win
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• #18
New here, all you need is a washer to fit over the thread, used to be common in 1/16th inch thick. Check the chain line to see whether to place on the hub first or under the LHT locking ring.
I sort of tried that by only puttin the sprocket on 3/4 of the way and then locking it. But could still turn the sprocket anti=clockwise by 1/4 turn using chainwhip so has to be down to the hammer and screwdriver not doing the job, need that last 1/4 turn on the lockring
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• #19
Right, so I borrowed a mate's chain whip to sort out my slippy sprocket. It's been fine for 2 months or so then out of the blue today it's started slipping again. I don't even skid that much so I'm not sure what its doing. Is the general consensus that a chain whip isn't enough? I would rotafix it but I'm scared about stripping the thread.
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• #20
this should do the trick
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• #21
Right, so I borrowed a mate's chain whip to sort out my slippy sprocket. It's been fine for 2 months or so then out of the blue today it's started slipping again. I don't even skid that much so I'm not sure what its doing. Is the general consensus that a chain whip isn't enough? I would rotafix it but I'm scared about stripping the thread.
A chain whip works for me so it should work for you.
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• #22
if you can't get a cog and lockring tight enough with either of those then no offence but you're a weakling.
keeping the tyre on the wheel, and pumped up, engage the tool and tighten the cog by pushing downwards so you can use your weight, get right over the wheel, straddle it if you have to.
same with the lockring, cept t'other way.threads should be greased, and check it all for tightness after a long ride, or a week of pootling
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• #24
if you can't get a cog and lockring tight enough with either of those then no offence but you're a weakling.
keeping the tyre on the wheel, and pumped up, engage the tool and tighten the cog by pushing downwards so you can use your weight, get right over the wheel, straddle it if you have to.
same with the lockring, cept t'other way.threads should be greased, and check it all for tightness after a long ride, or a week of pootling
Cool, I was going to ask if people tighten theirs regularly because if they didn't then it might indicate something was wrong with my set up. I was just surprised to feel it come loose again, especially after a couple of weeks. Actually now that I think about it I did ride a fair amount this week so I guess it makes sense.
Looks like I need to invest in a chain whip.
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• #25
Do it once, do it properly and there should be no need to tighten anything on a regular basis.
When I skid the sprocket goes back about a quarter of a turn. Then goes forward a quarter of a turn when putting pressure back on the pedals to go forwards.
I have not used a lockring tool to put the lockring on (bodged it with screwdriver/hammer) but it seems to be screwed on as hard as it can.
What I am asking is does anyone think that even doing the lockring up with a tool would stop this much 'play' or is it just the poor tolerances of a cheap hub that are not allowing the lockring to screw on as far as it needs to?
Don't want to shell out £20 for a tool if it is going to make no difference!