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• #27
Any thoughts on this ISIS BB seems like a good idea.
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• #28
I've got short legs, so am putting 165s on my Bob J.
I am, however used to 175s as they seem to throw them on OTPs as standard (shortist b**tards). So I will probably go with 175s for leverage
I think you misunderstand.165s all the way for my two fixed wheel (on road bikes).
180s for BMXBut for offroad as you need the leverage 165 is too short to get a proper power transfer. I've used both 170s and 175s and had pleasant experiences with both so when I come to buying mountain bike cranks I can never decide which to purcase.
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• #29
selling these:
BB is well ridden, but theres a top quality TA stainless steel 42t chainring.
£ ?
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• #30
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• #31
yes we do make vanity choices but it seems odd to make one based on some weird myth that square taper is best for singlespeeding. like i said above above if that was the case what's good for singlespeeding would be superlative for geared riding. so why aren't geared bikes sold with square taper if it's so good?
Some people say that square taper BBs are more reliable than external when riding in bad conditions, so that could be an argument for using square taper rather than external for a SS, which is more likely to be used in mud. That's a bit teruous though and I generally agree with you. Maybe it's because singlespeeders generally like really obscure, expensive, impractical stuff made by men with beards in small sheds?
I only ride ISIS middleburns because they came with a second hand bike that I bought and it seems silly to replace them when they're doing fine. If i was buying new cranks I'd get SLX cos I think they look nicer than XT and XTR is just over the top. If I was buying Middleburns I'd get square taper.
Original poster - those superstar ISIS BBs look pretty good for the money and superstar seem to stand behind them. I'll probably get one when my BB bites the dust.
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• #32
i like the idea of outboard bearings, but they creak and groan like a bitch (ultegra). even friends with dura-ace complain about the noises, to easy for shit to get caught between cranks and bearing face. shit, this is just for a roadie.
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• #33
you should get the white ind ones. really nice chainring design.
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• #34
The bottom bracket area is the most under-designed part of a bike. Roll on BB30 I say.
Go outboard and properly maintain your bike, they won't creak.
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• #35
Maybe it's because singlespeeders generally like really obscure, expensive, impractical stuff made by men with beards in small sheds?
So true it should be carved in granite somewhere!
When I was looking into frames I read a piss funny post on a US website. Something along the lines of....
*OK so my Voodoo was made in korea. Its still a nice frame. Just cuz its not wielded by some f*king beardy type in his garden shed dont make it crap.
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• #36
The bottom bracket area is the most under-designed part of a bike. Roll on BB30 I say.
Go outboard and properly maintain your bike, they won't creak.
I have BB30 on the road bike and 'tis great.
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• #37
The bottom bracket area is the most under-designed part of a bike. Roll on BB30 I say.
Go outboard and properly maintain your bike, they won't creak.
i don't call, pulling apart you complete BB and crankset after a 5hr ride, light maintainence!
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• #38
£ ?
They are 175mm, and I think I mightve lost the crank bolts.
But I can include the ISIS BB tool used once only.
After about £40 I guess, but let me know if thats unreasonable.
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• #39
They are 175mm, and I think I mightve lost the crank bolts.
But I can include the ISIS BB tool used once only.
After about £40 I guess, but let me know if thats unreasonable.
I think I've got some spare ISIS bolts lying around. Free to you if you swing by NE polo one day when I'm playing.
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• #40
Spent too much time pondering this, but have decided to go for a external bearing setup. I really like the look of the Middleburn and the White ind, but ultimately agree with MrSmith. Just because its a single speed doesnt mean I should go with older technology. I had a similar dilema when considering what stem/steerer combo to go for on my fixed. There I ended up going for a threaded steerer/ quil stem combo for looks, despite the fact that the ahead setup is better functionally. When its comes to such an important part of my drive chain though. I have to take fuction before form.
I dont really like the idea of converting a double or triple chainset though, unless I already had one, so it will be SS specific.
The Truvativ Stylo seems a good bet, as it is light (although not as light as the Middleburn), reputed for being stiff + reliable, and well priced. Cant say I'm in love with the looks, but its not ugly either.
Cheers all, for the input.
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• #41
This is prettier
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• #42
This is prettier
Tis true,
But they're roughly 300g heavier, and I'm planning on being a bit of a weight wheenie on this one.
(the bike is for riding up mountains)
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• #43
170 or 175s, that's where I can never make my mind up.
These are both.
1 Attachment
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• #44
I recently had the same dilemma and went for the White Industries ENO cranks, I'm ashamed to say it was mostly down to them looking so so pretty :D
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• #45
They are bloody nice to look at, tis true
As are these...
5 Attachments
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• #46
love my 960 xtrs cut and polished BUT they have a strabge bcd so rings can be expensive :(
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• #47
These are both.
They also have quite a distinctive look that for me is filed as fucking ugly
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• #48
They also have quite a distinctive look that for me is filed as fucking ugly
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• #49
They are bloody nice to look at, tis true
As are these...
Wow, those syncros are loverly.
I love tubular cranks. I think the dmrs i mentioned earlier are tubular too. I always wanted some bullseyes. -
• #50
Carbon chainring and cog on an mtb?? That's asking for trouble, surely?
selling these:
BB is well ridden, but theres a top quality TA stainless steel 42t chainring.