Herne Hill Bike needs

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  • Just doing my first build at the moment, and one of the things I'm trying to do is make sure it'll be rideable on the track...anyone know the 'rules'?
    I'm planning to run cinelli pursuit bars, about a 50-16 ratio, and at the moment, based on mixed info and a low budget, a non track hub (BB Lockring screwed hard on, riding with one brake, not planning on skidding...) . Guessing that for one aint gonna look too good for them? Sorry to keep posting annoying chat, we all started somewhere.

  • Join the Trackies group, wealth of info in there, I'm sure RPM and the track guys will give you some tips

  • there's a guide somewhere, but:
    must be drops (road/track)
    gear inches is up to you. im 47x14 on track (i think people at HH are usually on mid 80s to low 90s)
    brakes arent allowed
    not sure, but dont think a DIY track hub is allowed

    RPM is the Trackies group head honcho (and resident expert on HH). he'll be with you shortly

  • what trackies group???!

  • ^^What they said^^

    Get a brake lever that you can unhinge and take off easily, something like a Dirty Harry is ideal.

  • Drop bars with ends plugged. No aero, pursuit, arm rests etc.
    No brakes, quick releases, wingnut axles, freewheels. Lockrings not mandatory. No bald patches on your tires either.
    For HH converted road frames and cranks are OK cos it's shallow banking (they let roadies on during the week and in open sessions) but on a tighter track with steeper banking you'd be knacked.
    Slack chain recommended.

  • yep.
    your hub probably won't be scrutinized, but you have to make sure the cog won't undo when you apply back-pressure to stop (you'll do quite a lot of this on induction)

    if you can assure that it will stay on tight, then you can use it. Otherwise you should consider the safety of yourself and other riders as if one person in the bunch has a failure, it can bring a lot of people down.

    The free hire bikes are perfectly decent, in any case.

  • Thanks very much, filled me right in. I'll get some pista bars soon as, and I'll take my chat to the track bunch!
    Nik

  • Note: the reach, depth and width of the bar is far more important than whether they are labelled "pista" .....

  • You're also meant to have bar tape in case you slip on the shiny bits.

  • bar plugs are mandatory, depends who you speak to regarding tape/grips but obviously it's sensible to have a grip on your bars.

    if shiny bars are more important than grip then you should be questioning whether you ought to be track racing at all IMO.

    some of the new carbon track bars have a grippy surface built into them, so you don't have to worry about grips, but I don't expect novices will be showing up with those

  • Mirror finish on cleats mandatory.

  • Yeah you do not want your bars to be too narrow. I started there with 36, I think and they were far too narrow. 42, what I have now is far better. Easier to get air into the lungs and the extra width makes it harder for others to push you around, if you know what I mean

  • Hey, haven't been up there myself but definitely want to give it a go, apart from bars and brakes, is there anything else I need to know?

    Also, i'm currently running 42/16, so would I be better going for a 45/13 setup, or a 42/12 but having to shorten and lengthen the chain when I arrive and when I leave, as I will be cycling from Uxbridge.

  • Mirror finish on cleats mandatory.

    not with all that mud, track centre

  • Also, i'm currently running 42/16, so would I be better going for a 45/13 setup, or a 42/12 but having to shorten and lengthen the chain when I arrive and when I leave, as I will be cycling from Uxbridge.

    always a bit of argy bargy with your ratio if you have a small chainring...

    long term it's better to chose a ring that can be used on the road and track, then flip to a smaller cog when you get to the track. not always possible to use the same chain, depends how long your track ends are. I have two chains now, one for 50/15 and one for 50/19.

    12t sprockets are rare and not a great idea.

  • the more thin layers you have on the less chance you will have of grazing yourself if you go down. and on that point if you have the strength to ride near the front you should. there is sense of relief like no other when you hear that sound of bikes hitting the deck and you realise that its all happening behind you. dont get me wrong you still have concern for your fellow riders and their well being but that concern doesnt extend itself to that split second worry about how you might or might not negotiate the pile up. as you might guess i've seen it close up and have a ripped jersey or two somewhere. :)

  • Hey, haven't been up there myself but definitely want to give it a go, apart from bars and brakes, is there anything else I need to know?

    Also, i'm currently running 42/16, so would I be better going for a 45/13 setup, or a 42/12 but having to shorten and lengthen the chain when I arrive and when I leave, as I will be cycling from Uxbridge.

    @ Herne hill I run 42/13 if its windy or 44/13 when its not to bad out there.

    STW FTW!!

  • @ Herne hill I run 42/13 if its windy or 44/13 when its not to bad out there.

    STW FTW!!

    Yes but not everyone has your electric kneecaps.

  • 42/13 is 87, plenty enough!

    over 90 GI is unnecessary for most people for training,
    unless you're winning all the A cat races

  • Quick question would it be acceptable if I rode to the track with a brake and removed the lever to race? I would have no way of using the brake I dont see any problem with it, but wanted to ask anyway.

  • Quick question would it be acceptable if I rode to the track with a brake and removed the lever to race? I would have no way of using the brake I dont see any problem with it, but wanted to ask anyway.

    You have to remove the caliper too.

    But put the back bolt in a very very safe place or you'll get a perhaps unwanted intro to brakeless riding on the way home as someone did at the last track day.

  • Ah why do you have to remove the caliper too? Is there any real reason?

  • the grumpy old commisar - also you wouldn't want the caliper rotating into your spokes [the cable helps restrain it so when you take that away you increase the risk]

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Herne Hill Bike needs

Posted by Avatar for theteleflorist @theteleflorist

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