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• #2
lockring?
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• #3
Italian threading? Same thing happend to me on my coppi once.
Either way just buy some blue locktight and just that to keep it all secure.
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• #4
Are you using proper thread prep? One of the locktite solutions. Check parktools.com for bottom bracket installation. I just grease mine, but I'm lazy.
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• #5
Are you using proper thread prep? One of the locktite solutions. Check parktools.com for bottom bracket installation. I just grease mine, but I'm lazy.
Yeah me too! so i will check it out! cheers dude.
Italian threading? Same thing happend to me on my coppi once.
Either way just buy some blue locktight and just that to keep it all secure.
I will have a look cheers
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• #6
sometimes in installation a fine oil is used to alloy easy assemvly and stays in the threads, try degreasing and use a form of locktight when re assembling.
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• #7
I respectfully disagree with using locktight on a bicycle (although if you decide to use it, then do not use red, only blue).
If you have an Italian or French threaded bottom bracket, the right side can come loose due to precession (like pedals). The best solution is to put a liberal amount of grease on the threads and tighten the cup with all your might!!! Use a fixed cup tool with a mechanism for securing the tool to the fixed cup for three piece bottom brackets since purchase with a box/crescent or even a normal fixed cup wrench is not sufficient. ride away, and check it in a few weeks to make sure its still snug.
I doubt it is your lopsided chain tension. but if you want to fix that I suggest loosening your chainring bolts enough so that if you tap your chain with a wrench your chainring will center itself. They can't be too tight or too loose or this won't work. once you have them right, turn your crank arm until the tight spot is engaged, then gently wack your chain with a wrench or hammer. This will shift the chain ring on the chain ring bolts a little to better center your chainring. It will take a couple tries to get it right. tighten your bolts back up and your ready!
good luck!
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• #8
That happened all the time on my Peugot. I had no idea why or what to do about it and no one I spoke to did either. I just took it to be tightened on a regular basis. Someone from a bike co-op here said it was just because it was old?
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• #9
I respectfully disagree
You're new here aren't you ;)
Good advice by the way.
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• #10
Happens sometimes on my old Bianchi. Liquid PTFE and tighten the hell out of the cup. Was ok after that.
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• #11
I respectfully disagree with using locktight on a bicycle (although if you decide to use it, then do not use red, only blue).
Is that because you never owned a bike with an Italian BB? :)
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• #12
I'd love to know why we shouldn't use loctite to hold our Italian BBs in place - the unwinding problem has wasted so much of my time and effort, and ruined some longer rides, but now that I've degreased and used the blue stuff, all is well again.
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• #13
Happened to me (Italian thread) 1/4 of the way through the TdF sportive last year. Fortunately the route passed within a mile of my house so I kept finger tightening it every mile or so, took it gingerly, then dipped home, whipped off the crank and gave the BB a good old case of HTFU. I don't think I've never leant on a spanner so much in my life. Been fine since.
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• #14
I respectfully disagree with your respectful disagreement about using Loctite, based on Park Tools information.
*Begin by preparing the threads of the bottom bracket. A thread locker may be used when the frame shell is steel and the cups are either aluminum or steel lockrings. A mild thread locking compound such as Loctite® #242 that is considered "service removeable" is preferred. This means that the parts are removeable with normal tools and without taking extreme measures. If no thread locking compound is available, grease threads heavily or ASC-1 Anti Seize Compound. For more on thread preparation see Basic Thread Concepts. *
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94
( having said that, I've never used Loctite on a bike :) )
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• #15
I respectfully disagree with your respectful disagreement about using Loctite, based on Park Tools information.
*Begin by preparing the threads of the bottom bracket. A thread locker may be used when the frame shell is steel and the cups are either aluminum or steel lockrings. A mild thread locking compound such as Loctite® #242 that is considered "service removeable" is preferred. This means that the parts are removeable with normal tools and without taking extreme measures. If no thread locking compound is available, grease threads heavily or ASC-1 Anti Seize Compound. For more on thread preparation see Basic Thread Concepts. *
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94
( having said that, I've never used Loctite on a bike :) )
I've seen people use it, and I'm absolutely positive it won't harm your bike, however, when you want to take your bike apart and clean the frame, for example, you need a different solvent to remove the loctite. A normal degreaser will not be able to remove it. The reason I don't use it is because the job can be done without it, thus saving a headache for the future when you go to clean your bottom bracket threads. This is the only reason. go ahead and use it if you want.
I currently have a Mondia with French threading, and previously a pug. the only difference for me with maintaining these rides is pulling the cranks and tightening the fixed cup whenever I clean the drive train.
and yes, I'm new here. someone from your group posted over in bike forums recenly, and I'm just visiting. ;)
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• #16
thanks guys for al the advice! appreciate your time.
I think a good clean/degrease and reassemble is in order and if that fails loctite it is. Is it common of Italian treads then?
:)
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• #17
Yeah, as the ball bearings rotate the same way as you would undo the drive side of the BB, hence why the English thread is reversed to counter the problem.
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• #18
is there anyone out there with the proper know how and tools to get to and tighten my BB cups that wants to help a brotha out. I'm not sure what kind is in there. Prolly Hatta. It's a used Keirin frame, but i've never had to fuck wit the bottom bracket at all yet. I'm free tomorrow and then i work till 19:00 during the weekdays. actually, my last drop is usually around 18:00, and then i'm usually parked up around Charlotte St. if I'm in the West End, or else I go home to Old Street if i'm in the city. But, if anyone would wanna hook up for a minute to sort my shite out tomorrow, that would be hella cool... I can bring beer.
MIAH >> 0 79 50 48 28 62
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• #19
Does anyone know which solvant best removes loctite?
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• #20
http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-166271.html
lock de-icer will own loctite, no heat required.
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• #21
For my Italian bottom bracket
I think I am going to try dogsballs lots of force method
followed by tyan's PTFE solution
if all else fails I'll try the loctite!
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• #22
For my Italian bottom bracket
I think I am going to try dogsballs lots of force method
70Nm! Don't over-do it!
Any one suffered from their bottom bracket cups unwinding?
I have used an old style cup,bearings and spindle and a modern cartridge bottom bracket and both unwind on the drive side.
My chainline maybe a fraction off but nothing major. On the revolution of my crank the chain does have a spot where it is tighter than the rest of the revolution, i had this problem before and tried changing cranks and chainring and still have the same problem, only thing i haven't tried is changing the cog. i can only assume where it bites is causing the bottom bracket to unwind.
had a search for this problem but couldn't find anything.
Ta