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• #2
Yep do it.
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• #3
My pug had a spacer that fitted in the non-drive-side dropout to make it the same length as the drive side one.
The drive side had been shortened by use of a derailleur which fitted into the dropout.
So - are you sure it isn't the other way around? -
• #4
i'm guessing mugs of htfu will need to be served?
i hate stuff like this. the fear of fucking it all up looms large.
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• #5
surely putting a spacer on the longer side is much easier than grinding out the shorter side?
or are you short on drop-out-room? (which would surprise me with horizontal dropouts) -
• #6
My pug had a spacer that fitted in the non-drive-side dropout to make it the same length as the drive side one.
The drive side had been shortened by use of a derailleur which fitted into the dropout.
So - are you sure it isn't the other way around?yep drive side is defo shorter. just checked it again. because i doubted myself.
anyway. yeah. shorter on the drive side.
if, and i've tried it by taking the tensioner off and then pedaling the bike by hand (rather than trying it out on the street), the chain slips and i think it may start to pull the wheel out of the drop out.
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• #7
Your talking about forward facing horizontal dropouts right? If so then what difference does it make what is behind the axle/nut? Sure you don't just need to htfu and tighten it up properly?
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• #8
yeah sorry for confusion, forward facing.
it doesn't seem, and i've had them pretty tight, that there's enough room for the nut to grip onto. edit to add: for me to feel comfortable.odd situation? or poorly explained?
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• #9
What kind of tensioner do you have?
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• #11
the whole point of horizontal drop outs is to provide some horizontal adjustment, no?
so it's perfectly fine that your axle doesn't reach the very end of the drop out.
maybe you're just not doing it up tight enough if it's slipping.
can you show us a photo? -
• #12
the post above explains the problem of the drop out size.
i'll try and get some pics, not sure they'll be up till tomorrow. the nut is right at the edge of the drop out. i'm doing it up so it can't move anymore.
massive thanks for everyone working through this with me.
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• #13
I know the drop outs damo is talking about. Non drives side is a normal long horizontal forward facing dropout but the drive side has the same size dropout but the back of it is not machined out. You can see a line where it could be machined out to the would make it symmetric to the other side and no weaker.
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• #14
^^ that photo shows what I was on about well. On the photo has already been dilled out and just a bit of filing is needed to finish off the job.
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• #15
if this works, i.e. i dont fuck the dropout beyond the point of use, am i right in thinking i won't need a chain tensioner?
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• #16
no chain tensioner will be needed provided you chain is the correct length.
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• #17
next thing to do then.
cheers peoples.
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• #18
Are there holes for these?:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-SJSC-Rear-Dropout-Frame-Adjusters-per-pair--25mm-length-11609.htm -
• #19
bump.
to say:
has anyone got any experience of doing this? i don't and don't want to rip the fuck out of my frame.
any one available to help?
if not i'll give brixton bikes a call i think.ta
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• #20
If the situation on you bike is similar to what is shown on the pics above (red schwimm bike) and you have something like 15mm. adjustment available on the drive side drop-out, it doesn't have to be symetric to the opposite drop-out: as long as you have a chain to the correct lenght, you should be able to get the right tensionning whithout a chain tensionner, and without drilling your frame IMHO...
Also, pics would help.Loic
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• #21
there's really not a lot of room to play with. i've got in touch with a mate who's confidence with power tools and general skills is better than mine. drilling tomorrow. pics?
so, i don't know if anyone out there has noticed, but sometimes raleigh drop outs (dropouts?) are not symmetrical. the one on the drive side isn't as long as the one on the non-drive side.
i've got a chain tensioner, but i'd rather not have one.
has anyone got any experience of drilling them out to the same length? so i don't need to do the tensioner thing anymore?
i'm imagining drills and dremels. and measure twice cut once.
any info would be grand.
ta