Brooks bar-tape f*ck up, be warned...

The last one I bought, the type with the holes in, had no seam, I think. But those crappy brandy-bottle corks fell apart on me, too, they're shite. The first one I bought (the older type without holes) was sewn together, and I had some trouble with one unstitching itself whilst winding it on. I guess they vary and you gotta be careful. Maybe you should stitch it together yourself? Or use Fizik?! I wouldn't buy leather tape again after using that stuff. Though I'm tempted by the sleeve type ones like JOL's.

@nimhbus & Skullhead - That's my point gents. The tape I had, the two pieces were glued, not very well, and not stitched. If they had have been stitched I imagine they would have held up fine instead of coming apart so easily.

Interesting that your corks fell apart as well Skullhead. Surely just a decent glue like a two-part epoxy resin (Araldite or something similar) would do the job in the factory?

well, i'd send it back then, or email brooks.

i think it's a bit overpriced/rated, it has to be said.

You have to have stems pointing downward on any road bike, other wise it looks shit.

This is especially so if you have a steel bike with drop bars and a "track" setup.

Stick on some front & rear panniers, one of those reflectors that pops out to the side, some mudguards and a large bell and you might get away with it.

Otherwise, flip it , flip it now!

i used to think as you do, but am getting into the flipped up look.

Not related but I bought a Gazelle badge for £4 at HH today. Teenslain's got it for you.

You have to have stems pointing downward on any road bike, other wise it looks shit.

This is especially so if you have a steel bike with drop bars and a "track" setup.

Stick on some front & rear panniers, one of those reflectors that pops out to the side, some mudguards and a large bell and you might get away with it.

Otherwise, flip it , flip it now!

yeah, never mind about the correct riding position.

you wally

You have to have stems pointing downward on any road bike, other wise it looks shit.

This is especially so if you have a steel bike with drop bars and a "track" setup.

Stick on some front & rear panniers, one of those reflectors that pops out to the side, some mudguards and a large bell and you might get away with it.

Otherwise, flip it , flip it now!

Obviously never been to an actual track or seen (or watched on TV) a road race, but thanks for the authentic knowledge!!

yeah I was being childish,

but being obsessive about proportions is kind of my thing.

Generally what looks wrong, is wrong.

You can just tell when is something is setup "just right" that bike just looks awkward.

In my (shallow) opinion it would ride better with lower bars irrespective of rider height.

That's the missus (and her sister):-)

and there was me thinking it was Platini himself... :(

yeah I was being childish,

but being obsessive about proportions is kind of my thing.

Generally what looks wrong, is wrong.

You can just tell when is something is setup "just right" that bike just looks awkward.

In my (shallow) opinion it would ride better with lower bars irrespective of rider height.

that'll be why there are many more horizontal stems than there are drops on road bikes. and even steel track bikes.

I'll see how it rides but I kind of like awkward. It suits the rider.

;)

To be honest I just wanted something that's going to age with me (hence getting leather parts like saddle and wraps) that I can adapt and change on an as need basis. It'll look better once it's more 'lived in' give it a year or three...

a fuji track won't last that long though :(

Oh yes it will!

:)

So did you stitch the bits back together?

I agree for that money Brooks are taking the P, and strange that they've gone from stitching them together to gluing, which sound shite. As I say I'm pretty sure they don't always have a join... I guess you have to take them out of the box in the shop to see...

Just buy some fizik though, I find leather's pretty crap when it gets wet.

As for the stem conversation, I have just flipped an Ahead into this upward position on my family bike (aka beater aka shit weather bike) and its given me much better control when a child & seat is on the back (which is damn heavy and quite a struggle), and a much more tourer ish position (comfy and looking like I ought to have a cape on and perhaps one of those orange sticky out thingys). but I am getting old so I have all this to come. Horses for courses innit.

Cork ends did the same when I had Brooks tape. IMO it's not worth the premium. Bar tape gets fucked up innit.

I hear the Fizik stuff is good though I've never used it.

the cork ends are a bit gay, i didn't put them on mine.

I hear the Fizik stuff is good though I've never used it.

It is good. Mine has held up nicely. It doesn't scuff up too bad either, if you come off.

I hear the Fizik stuff is good though I've never used it.

It is good. As is the Stella Azzura. I recommend both highly.

So did you stitch the bits back together?

Nope, it didn't occur to me at the time and I just cut it at an angle to finish off wrapping it thus losing one end of the naff glue job. Have sent what I did have left over back to the shop with box/receipt etc. for a replacement. Also emailed Brooks last week to ask their advice/opinion but have yet to hear back from them.

Thought I'd resurrect this to mention that I had some brooks bar tape that was glued rather than stitched as well. The glue came apart as I was overzealously wrapping it (I was pulling too hard to try - unsuccessfully - to avoid folds). I ended up supergluing the ends back together and it worked fine; it feels a bit hard where the glue is but it's not too bad. Mind you, the tape looks sh*t now, it's unravelling and I can't seem to get it to stay in place. Next time I'm getting some cheap stuff, no point in shelling out £30 when you could get 5 rolls of perfectly good tape that'll last just as long for the same price.

Try using contact adhesive, glues leather a treat.

Resurrection here. Am about to tape up some risers but wanted a bit of advise on the finshing near the bar plugs, how do you get the cleanest result, i.e. without flaps of material everywhere?

Start at the end of the bars, don't finish there.

Leave an inch or so of tape over the end of the bars; manipulate it with your hand for a while so it goes a bit softer, stick the plug in.

tuck it inside the bar end, then push plug in = job done