I run 48/18. I tried going one tooth down to 48/17, mainly for skid patches, but also to glide a bit more and spin a bit less on longer runs. What a change it made, for the worse. Although it gave me more top end speed, that was all I got. The bike went from quick, agile and responsive to a beast I had to man handle around. If I saw a gap in the traffic I couldn't spin up and be there in a blink, it was suddenly hard work.
I reckon 48/18 would feel very snappy for you coming off 15t. Fuji give you that default gearing - around 84gi - because they sell it as a track bike.
Going 48/19 for my own use would be too far in the other direction. If you want more skid patches you can do this:
find your skid patches after a little wearing in (there will be three if running 48/18)
Set one of them to be touching the ground while cranks are horizontal
Remove chain from rear sprocket
Rotate wheel so that the patch touching the ground is now halfway between two skid patches
Make sure cranks are still horizontal
Stick the chain back on rear sprocket.
Long answer, hope it helps - and that you chain is long enough even for the 18t.
I run 48/18. I tried going one tooth down to 48/17, mainly for skid patches, but also to glide a bit more and spin a bit less on longer runs. What a change it made, for the worse. Although it gave me more top end speed, that was all I got. The bike went from quick, agile and responsive to a beast I had to man handle around. If I saw a gap in the traffic I couldn't spin up and be there in a blink, it was suddenly hard work.
I reckon 48/18 would feel very snappy for you coming off 15t. Fuji give you that default gearing - around 84gi - because they sell it as a track bike.
Going 48/19 for my own use would be too far in the other direction. If you want more skid patches you can do this:
Long answer, hope it helps - and that you chain is long enough even for the 18t.