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  • Hub centre to hub flange is simply that, the distance from the middle of the hub to the spoke flange ie if oln is 120mm then measure in 60mm from one of the locknuts and make a mark. This is the hub centre. Now measure from this mark back out to the flange. Or if your hub is symetrical as track hubs should be then measure between the flanges and divide by 2.
    I wouldn't worry about spoke hole diameter too much, id enter a value of around 2mm.
    Cross pattern is upto you. If you choose to go radial on the front it'd make that wheel a GOOD bit easier to build.
    On the back the norm is either 3 or 4 cross.
    When your doing any cross pattern getting it started right is the most important bit. On a size like 700c valve placement isnt such an issue but i like to get it right, the valve(hole) should sit in one of the big gaps between spokes - look at another wheel to see what i mean.
    I lace all the inbound spokes on one side (start by putting a spoke in the hole beside the valve hole) then flip the wheel over and find the spoke hole in the hub flange that will mean you have a pair of spokes beside the valve hole rather than a pair with the valve hole between them.
    Once you have laced all the inbounds on that side of the wheel you put in the outbounds for the first side, flip it over and twist these the hub and begin inter lacing. Make sure you twist the hub and spokes so that the pair of spokes beside the valve hole are angled away it.
    Trying to think about this without actually doing it will just confuse you. The first few wheels i laced i did beside the computer continually checking against this website
    http://www.gsportbmx.com/tech/guide_wheelbuilding.php
    i know its a bmx site/wheel but i found it to be the easiest guide to follow.

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