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• #2
Presuming that you are undoing them the correct way and have a good pedal spanner.
Try tightening them and then try to undo them, it may be enough to break the corrosion within the screw threads -
• #3
good pedal spanner thats' atleast a 2 foot long. thats all you need.
amen ! -
• #4
grease the Speedplay Frogs threads before you put them on,makes life a lot easier
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• #5
If you have access to a blowtorch gently with a small flame heat the pedal shafts at the crank end. Then try to loosen. Repeat again etc. Have never done this with pedals but has always worked on cars and in plumbing. Make sure its a small flame to keep it localised.
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• #6
Ta for all of the advice. Unfortunately...
- No pedal spanner
- No blowtorch
- No shops open on a Sunday in this town
So won't be able to fulfill my commitment to the "have you fallen on your ass the first time you went clipless" thread.
Off to the LBS next week!
- No pedal spanner
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• #7
Don't remove the crank FFS - you need the leverage that comes from the pedals remaining in situ...
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• #8
Archi - were you based? got shifting equip if you're west london
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• #9
Thanks v. much for the offer BDW. But am guessing Amsterdam is a bit too far from West London :)
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• #10
Don't remove the crank FFS - you need the leverage that comes from the pedals remaining in situ...
Thought about it, as it was recommended by the great Sheldon. But decided against it. Didn't really want to heat my nice black, White Industries, crank arms over the hob!
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• #11
no worries :^]
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• #12
archi, lock in your spanner, then get out the hammer and have at it (anti-clockwise)
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• #13
archi, lock in your spanner, then get out the hammer and have at it (anti-clockwise)
Tried that already, and failed :( They didn't budge.
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• #14
stick a metal tube over your spanner to extend it and get a bit of leverage
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• #15
Ta for all of the advice. Unfortunately...
- No pedal spanner
- No blowtorch
- No shops open on a Sunday in this town
- No metal tube
Updated ;)
- No pedal spanner
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• #16
what abt a seatpost
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• #17
try soaking the theads in cokacola or gt85/wd40 4 a while, should help kill some of the corrosion
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• #18
massive pipe over spanner=lots of leverage
cock, already suggested...
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• #19
Fit the pedal spanner in such a way so you can squeeze it against a tube (i.e downtube) with your hand/s - loads of force there.
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• #20
I came up with this when I had a similar problem:
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• #21
I came up with this when I had a similar problem:
You are confusing your problem (hide the blind date that went bad) with his problem (stuck pedal).
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• #22
If you have access to a blowtorch gently with a small flame heat the pedal shafts at the crank end.
Wouldn't this cause the pedal shaft (and thread) to very slightly expand making it even tighter ?
I thought you would want to heat the end of the crank ?
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• #23
Just try and forget about the new Speedplays until you've got a pedal spanner to use. It'll make an impossible job seem easy (and you won't have to melt your cranks with a blowtorch.)
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• #24
You are confusing your problem (hide the blind date that went bad) with his problem (stuck pedal).
HaHa !!
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• #25
Just try and forget about the new Speedplays until you've got a pedal spanner to use. It'll make an impossible job seem easy (and you won't have to melt your cranks with a blowtorch.)
I quite like this common sense approach.
But...am up for a challenge. Looking to try LPG's seatpost over the spanner idea. Now all I need to do is to get the seatpost out of the BMX that's rusting on the terrace at the moment ;)
Look out for my next thread installment, "Stuck Seatpost".
Trying to remove some MKS pedals to make way for some sassy Speedplay Frogs.
These things are tighter than a nuns knickers and aren't budging.
First port of call, Sheldon. His advice is to remove crank arm and heat pedal n arm over the hob? Before I go down this route, does anyone have any other advice (apart from HTFU and chew them off!!)?
Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks!