Cutting chains

[URL="http://i.pbase.com/o6/12/47412/1/103773567.j0qwFETH.DSC_2720.jpg"][/URL]After shredding my rear tyre I've dropped a tooth to get more skid patches (I'm now running 48x17). With chain stretch and fewer cogs to run over, my wheel is now on a journey off the back of my drops, see pic.

What do you lot do to cut your chain? I've searched the threads here and can't seem to find any answers. Any help will be much appreciated.

JB

chain cracker is your answer - this is available from HubJub - (they're also found on some multi-tools)
Or plenty of people will have one you could probably borrow…

most people have got them, I've got some Topeak thing which works..

or come to south beers and one of us will be able to wrangle it

Thanks peeps. I've been meaning to get along to south beers - maybe next week. I'd appreciate the help and would like to see how this little trick is done.

Thanks again.

Make sure you get the right one for the chain size........

Mate, have you considered at 47t chainring? It gives you many skidpatches - 47x17=17 skidpatches, 47x18=18, 47x19=19 etc etc... (double if you are an ambipedal skidder)

fyi...

Thanks Canuck for the heads up and Skully for the 47T tip. I do ambi-skid so with a prime-number chain ring like that, the whole wheel would be one big skid patch.

the 'trick' you speak of is fairly intuitive.. if you give it a go yourself though just remember not to push the pin out all the way, just enough so that you can remove the inner link

On a related subject. What's your technique for freeing up the inevitable stiff link that you get when you re-joint a chain?

if you have a stiff link after rejoining a chain, you generally havent put the pin in the correct distance, either too far in or not enough, check that the connecting pin is sticking out the same distance of either side of the linkplate, if it is, and it's still stiff try flexing the link sideways to loosen it up a bit, and add oil.

I presumed this happened due to the mechanics of the way a chain splitter works. In my head you'll end up with the outside 2 plates slightly too far in on the pin, pinching the centre links/roller. I mean they free themselves up, but it was just a pondering.

http://bicycletutor.com/chain-tool/

Bingo! Thanks for that.

when rejoining the chain, rather than relying on aim with the link extractor I use a set of mole grips to press the rivet poking out into the fishplates so all I have to do is push the rivet in the last part through the fishplate on the far side.

I grip the chain either side of the join and push it inwards and outwards to eliminate any stiffnes- done it for years that way and no stiff links.

Tip always work with the rivet facing you when rejoining the chain, now some peeps try it from the dark side of the moon and have an awful job holding/lining up/chain falling apart/etc

just dont put the pin right out the back and onto the floor like my mate did, cos that is kantish to get back in again, especially with a my dads vintage knackered out chain splitter! The phrase 'get back in there you little bastard' was used quite freely.

Rather than trying to catch the end of the pin.....by some new ones for pence...They go threw much easer and don't risk bending out the other side. Could even get a split link.

To get rid of stiff links the chain cracker (or chain tool, whatever you want to call it) has two sets of prongs which you can locate between the chain side plates. Those at the opposite end from the tightener are what you use when pressing the pin out, or when pressing it back in. You then flip the tightener over to the other side of the chain and locate the chain on the prongs nearest the tightener. Just the slightest pressure on the pin will then push it back a little through the side plate in the opposite direction (the pin moves through one sideplate, not the other as that is free floating), and ... bingo - no more stiff link!

http://bicycletutor.com/chain-tool/

Bingo! Thanks for that.

perfect.
thanks