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@daveray
Indeed, the longer the crank arm the more leverage you have (No it isn't just about saddle height), but on the track pushing a huge gear generally isn't the chosen thing. And fixed on the road is likely to require a lower gear still. The issues then change from one's ability to gain leverage to one's ability to spin. The longer arm hampers this. Some tall roadies (Boonen - 6'4" for example) run 177.5 or 180, but on the track few riders of any size will run more than 172.5, and neither pedal strike nor toe overlap are problems when riding at speed on steep tracks like Manchester. On the road these can be issues, toe overlap at low speeds, pedal strike on corners at high. Toe overlap is a particular issue because track frames generally come with shorter top tubes and tighter angles than equivalently seat tube sized road bikes.
Basically I think you will find 170 to be perfectly adequate. I think campy do a 172.5 as may DA if you must but most, me included, would feel little if any improvement around town. Any longer than that anyway and you are in custom territory, although 180 road cranks are fairly easy to buy OTP.
Oh and if pedal strike is a major concern, say on a low BBed conversion as opposed to a track bike then small/single sided pedals can make quite a difference IMHO.