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• #2
B++ : You are capable of better work than this.
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• #3
Check your chainline with a steel rule. If you're careful, you don't even need to remove the chain.
Obviously, it needs to reach from chainring to the sprocket.
You can rest the side of the rule against a few teeth on your chainring (this keeps it square) and check where the sprocket is relative to this.
Also, check/update the Transmission Database.
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• #4
looks like cranks are inboard by 1-2mm
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• #5
This whole thread deserves to end up on BikeSnob
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• #6
LOL
Anyway, what Dogs says. Adjust the BB (however the fuck you do that).
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• #7
looks like cranks are inboard by 1-2mm
Thinking I might move the chainring to the outer side of the crank. Reckon this would work?
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• #8
might be too much :(
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• #9
might be too much :(
That's an arse - would be nice to have the chainring clean on the outer side. Suppose I should get over myself and try for a chainline that works rather than a chainset that is aesthetically pleasing.
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• #10
85%
(80 for cash)
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• #11
flip the cog over maybe? they're usually assymetrical and yours looks to be on the way that makes it site out. looks like you should still have enough clearance for the chain to run without rubbing on the spokes
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• #12
I have a pretty perfect chainline at the moment and am rather chuffed at my completeley silent ride, keep expecting something to fuck up, seems to good to be true, ive never had a bike this smooooth!
What is bugging me though, is that I have to run my chainring on the inside of the spider, its a pretty nifty gold looking number too! But if I move it out Ill need a smaller BB, which im happy to do, but Im worried that my spider arms are too close to the chainstay.
Im running a 110bb currently, would think id need to move it in 3mm if I put the ring on the other side. Which would mean Id need a 107mm BB. I dont know if its easy to see in the picture, but you reckon its too close?
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• #13
welcome to the stanley gibbons of fixed wheel threads.
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• #14
welcome to the stanley gibbons of fixed wheel threads.
bit worried you actually know who Stanley Gibbons is, but love the analogy. (after I googled him)
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• #15
bit worried you actually know who Stanley Gibbons is, but love the analogy. (after I googled him)
Stamps? A friend of mine used to work at their place in Ringwood...
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• #16
Knowing about Stanley Gibbons doesn't make you a philatelist, it makes you older than 35 - when we were kids a lot of people had these stanley gibbons albums, it was a bit like Pannini stickers albums.
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• #17
Knowing about Stanley Gibbons doesn't make you a philatelist, it makes you older than 35 - when we were kids a lot of people had these stanley gibbons albums, it was a bit like Pannini stickers albums.
being 33 ive never heard of Stanley Gibbons...but Pannini Stickers albums now they were great. think ive still got my 1983/84 season somewhere
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• #18
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• #20
This whole thread deserves to end up on BikeSnob
+1
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• #21
Straight chainlines are so 1970's.. it's all about bi-curious chainlines now. Catch the fuck up!
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• #22
Just to try and drag this back on track, I spent the afternoon working on this, and in spite of having a perfect 40mm front and back, it's still making noise.
I've noticed that the chain itself seems to be squirming a bit as it turns. Could this be a chain issue rather than chainline? I'm using a half-link chain, just in case that makes a difference...
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• #23
Noisy drivelines have been covered before. Non-round chainrings, certain combos of rings/chains. Search.
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• #24
Just to try and drag this back on track, I spent the afternoon working on this, and in spite of having a perfect 40mm front and back, it's still making noise.
I've noticed that the chain itself seems to be squirming a bit as it turns. Could this be a chain issue rather than chainline? I'm using a half-link chain, just in case that makes a difference...
Its very common for well used cranks, non centred/worn/bent chainrings to have 'tight spots'
It could also be caused by a few stiff links on your chain.(clean & oil)
Other than getting new parts, you can simply accept a little slack in your chain and enjoy a smoother more durable & efficent drivetrain.
Thought with the number of threads there are on chainline I'd make myself useful and start something that I hope could help some of us.
By and large, it's often hard to tell anyone who's asking about their chainline just what's wrong with it without having a looksie, so thought this could be a useful place to slap down a photo of your chainline (and maybe an MP3 of it in action so you can hear it) and have others tell you what needs to be done to sort it out.
So here's mine...
I have a bit of leeway because I'm using a Miche Primato BB, as well as road double cranks, so I can adjust the axle a little, as well as shift the ring either on the inside or the outside. Now looking at the photo, I reckon it's too far inwards, but would be grateful if anyone has any comments either on the chainline or how to perfect it.
On top of this, if anyone else wants to put up photos I reckon this would be a good 'un - ones of perfect silent ones too would help, so we know what to aim for.
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