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@50/14
I stayed in a little town called Les Cabannes some years ago, in between Ax-les-Thermes and Ussat-les-Bains from memory. It's on the route from Montauban to Andorra so might be trafficy this time of year although this mainly comprises non-stop coaches passing through. Nice location, nestling in the foothills of the Pyrenees. There is a road from the village that leads up to the first high mountain of the Pyrenees, past a chateau. Nice pension run by a roguish Parisian ex-boxer, with fabulous charcuterie, set in a timeless square off the main route. Ussat has a Roman type arcade with literally dozens of baths for sauna massage and health, etc. The area is the Arriege, and is steeped in Cathar history. Well worth a visit. Ax smells of suphur and the mud is yellowish, by the way.